Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,474 total · 115/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

P1: Classic El Rito climb and one of the best 5.7 pitches in Northern New Mexico. Climb straight up a knobby face to a small roof below the base of the right trending crack. Follow the crack until it seems logical to head on up to the belay ledge.

A second quick link has been added to the right bolt of the rap anchor at the top of P1.  Without it, rapping from the fat ring and the single quick link can produce some nasty rope coils during the pull.

P2: Straight up the left facing dihedral. Alternatively, trend up and right over the blunt arete to top out at the anchors for "Juniper Overhang" and "Bring me a Bucket".

Location

On the left side of the cliff, locate a right trending crack ~20m up above a small roof. The route starts on the knobby face directly below. Walk off to the left.

Protection

Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are strategically placed at the top of P1 at the base of the left facing dihedral. Belay from gear at the top or from the next set of anchors to the right (if following the variation described above).

Photos