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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,778 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1: Classic El Rito climb and one of the best 5.7 pitches in Northern New Mexico. Climb straight up a knobby face to a small roof below the base of the right trending crack. Follow the crack until it seems logical to head on up to the belay ledge.

P2: Straight up the left facing dihedral. Alternatively, trend up and right over the blunt arete to top out at the anchors for "Juniper Overhang" and "Bring me a Bucket".

Location

On the left side of the cliff, locate a right trending crack ~20m up above a small roof. The route starts on the knobby face directly below. Walk off to the left.

Protection

Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are strategically placed at the top of P1 at the base of the left facing dihedral. Belay from gear at the top or from the next set of anchors to the right (if following the variation described above).

Photos

TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
 
If you are thinking of climbing this route, pick up your bag and move down the crag to pack rat dihedral, climb that amazing route, and if there is still time left in the day come back and climb the big "E" May 29, 2017