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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Lynn and Gary Clark
Page Views: 1,399 total · 12/month
Shared By: Minesh Bacrania on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Excellent climbing with abundant placements and holds. Good route for a first trad lead.

Location

This is the rightmost route on the main wall. Start directly under the big cave/hole halfway up the wall. To descend, follow the summit "ridge" down to the right and drop into the obvious 3rd-/4th-class gully. Beware of cacti.

Protection

Std. rack up to BD #1 or #2. Big gear (BD #2,#3, big hexes/nuts) and 20' of webbing can be used to set an anchor at the top.

Photos

Finn Foster
  5.5
Finn Foster  
  5.5
Amazing first trad lead for new trad climbers. I think it's more of a 5.5, but the placements are bomber all around if you have a complete rack. I placed cams, hexes, nuts, and tricams on this route and cruised it.
Go in cave, exit right, and stay to the right of the "death flake" at least a body length. Fixed Pro at the top and walk off potential off the backside (kinda sketchy dismount to the walk off path that is already interesting enough).

ALSO, CACTI SUCKS Oct 12, 2015
Andrew Nelson
  5.5
Andrew Nelson  
  5.5
Fun, easy route that offers lots of variation after the cave. Jun 10, 2014
Steven Reneau  
5.4
To find the anchors, take a route straight up from the cave. They are not visible until you are almost there, at or just past the halfway point on a 60 m rope. If you trend right up the great looking rock above the cave you will end up on the shoulder below and right of the anchors, requiring a traverse. Fun route that can be led entirely with nuts. Apr 22, 2013
There are now a pair of bolted anchors with chains to rap off. A 60m rope will get you down *just barely*. This is also the quickest and easiest way down for Pedernal Cracks, and, reportedly, Shoes for Industry. May 7, 2012
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.4
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.4
A good way to quickly find the base of the route: start at Packrat Dihedral and skirt along the base until the wall is broken by a rubble-strewn gully. Back up a bit (20 yards?) until below the 2 meter by 2 meter cave.

As indicated, the middle of the route ascends directly up from the right side of the cave. This ends at a lower right "shoulder" of the formation. We continued the pitch by ascending the ridge line 10 feet or so to the next shoulder, and then traversed leftward across the face and then up to the "head" of the formation. At the "head", there is a very nice belay location and a large attached block to wrap something long around (a cordalette may need extension with some slings). However, the above traverse is a little sparse on pro and has the bonus of a large 4 foot by 2 foot detached chunk of rock; this can be completely avoided by skirting beneath it and then straight up.

From the "head", one can make a couple downclimb moves off the back to the rubble field - easy to back up the moves with a belay both ways. The downclimb moves are no harder than any on the climb.

For return to the base after getting off the "head", bypass the gully/slot that is immediately behind the right side of the formation and instead take the next one back from that. Jun 14, 2010
I think this is the best quality of four the 'easy' climbs described by Gary Clark in this section of El Rito Trad. Don't not do it just because it is a 5.3. Especially if you are wanting an easy, beginner trad lead, it is a nice 5.3. The route follows a nice line, is not contrived, and offers lots of opportunity to learn gear placement. Aug 12, 2008