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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gary and Lynn Clark, ~1987
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A 1 pitch climb past a mushroom-shaped roof about 25m up. Climb the crack leading through the center of the mushroom and continue up a crack/chimney to a large pine. The climbing is good through the roof with crappy brush and 4th class afterward. Lots of spots/choices to build a gear anchor.

Location

The start is about 30 m right of Packrat Dihedral. Look for the mushroom shaped roof about 25 m up the wall. For the descent, you can climb up and go left for awhile to reach the standard descent trail (more pleasant) or do the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

Trad rack with stoppers and cams to 3"; 6-8 double length runners.

Photos

Finn Foster
  5.8
Finn Foster  
  5.8
This route kinda sucks. Choss is everywhere and the placements are filled with it. The climbing is easy enough to solo it, but near the mushroom it gets kinda interesting. You can't chimney the mushroom crack even though it looks like you can from the base. In addition, there are shrubs everywhere and you lose sight of your climber after the mushroom. Definitely don't climb this if you are looking for a good time.

The descent needs two 60's becasue one 60m will reach close to the midpoint by the time you get to the pine at the top. I would recommend either the leader dragging a rope, or using a 70m for the rappel down. The walk off is an adventure and a half, so just rappel if you choose to climb this route. Oct 12, 2015