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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 217 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Commie Pinkos is a great beginners route - good climbing with plenty of protection.

P1. Climb a medium sized flake to a face that leads up to a decent belay stance. There is an old, gnarled juniper tree next to the belay with rappel slings wrapped around it. The climbing is easy and straight forward.

P2. Continue up from the belay stance to the summit ridge above. The climbing is generally easier the farther right you stay. The route can be a little confusing at the top – stay to the right of a small gully splitting the top of the crag and belay on a ledge left of a big juniper tree.

To descend, pick up the trail at the top of the cliff and hike down and left, through the rocky gully to the left of the crag.

Location

Located on the far left side of the crag (hence the name – it’s as far left as you can get…). Further to the left, the crag turns into a broken talus slope. Start near the uppermost of two large pine trees near the base of the wall.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos

Howard Snell
Belen, New Mexico
Howard Snell   Belen, New Mexico
Bill:

Where did you end your 1st pitch? We stopped at a small, slightly cramped alcove above gnarly's juniper. I think Larry & Bill D. belayed from the Juniper. Jun 15, 2011
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Went up this today. P2 is a great beginner lead ... at least the way we did it which seemed very reasonable. Jun 12, 2011