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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,092 total · 45/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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P1: Follow the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff up to a bolted belay anchor under the right hand side of the large roof.

P2: Turn the roof on the right and continue straight up to the top. Excellent.


Starts in the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff. Walk off up and to the left.


Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are located at the top of P1 under the right hand side of the roof. Belay from gear at the top (no anchors).
Devin Shunk
Devin Shunk  
Great second pitch on this one! Sep 24, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
The first pitch of this route offers loads of protection options and is enjoyable. The second pitch is airy as you step around the roof and back left over the big roof atop pitch 1. It's stellar! Personally, I find the gear options on the second pitch to be less-than-desirable with odd shaped cracks and flares. When I lead the second pitch I trend left and up which takes one into a smooth section of rock which offers a bit more challenge as well as a bit more length to the pitch. It also gets you to a bomber tree to use for a belay anchor. Sep 30, 2007
Minesh Bacrania  
The route lives up to its name! Sounded like the packrat was doing its packrat thing in/under the pile of leaves/brush behind the big flake at the first belay..... Sep 30, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
If you're looking for a short bit of variation on pitch 1 of this route climb the obvious corner (a.k.a. Rat Crack) to climber's left from the good-sized ledge about 30 feet below the bolted anchor atop P1. It's steep and positive with some fun stemming and no harder than 5.8. Nov 4, 2007
Minesh Bacrania  
Another fun variation: we aimed straight up P2 after rounding the roof at the start of P2. This variation was as wonderfully "airy" as the "aim left for the tree" option discussed above, but the climbing is enjoyable (no harder than 5.6), and there are a fair number of options for gear. Sep 27, 2008
Devin Shunk
Devin Shunk  
I found my set of tri-cams very useful on the second pitch. Sep 16, 2009
Chris Tucker
Knoxville, TN
Chris Tucker   Knoxville, TN
Sling material, Locker and cord left at start of route. Didn't take it since it might have belonged to someone walking down possibly. Jun 2, 2010
I spent this weekend up at El Rito and climbed the Packrat Dihedral, I am really new to Trad and this was the perfect first route awesome pro and really easy climbing. I was unable to find the bolts and I think it was because I was way on the right face, but I never did see any bolts. But from the pictures I think I was a foot or so off on the right face rather than in the dihedral...I guess it would have made sense to look there even though the guide said it was on the face rather than in the dihedral. Jul 11, 2010
Andrew Nelson
Andrew Nelson  
Fun route. First pitch is very straightforward. Nice and long, with lots of protection. Anchors are at the top of the dihedral. Coming out from the dihedral and getting the full view is awesome. Be warned, although the area was not closed, there were a pair of falcons nesting (mid-june) and they did not enjoy my presence. Made the second pitch a little interesting. From what we could tell, their nest was well to the left of Packrat Dihedral, but they were being very territorial. Placing gear, even on easy ground, is a little interesting when being dive-bombed by angry birds. My wife called this pitch 5.Falcon for good reason. Several trees up top to belay from before the walk off, which is cairned. Jun 10, 2014
Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
A fun noted by others, the first pitch was very straightforward.
I liked the airiness of the 2nd pitch, but wandered a bit to find gear...dabbled both left and right and a little 5.6 and 5.3. Fun though! If it's your first time, just be patient and for potential rope drag if you don't commit to one steady line on the 2nd pitch.
Good day, good climb! Feb 27, 2017
Durango, Co
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
When you go around the roof at the beginning of the second pitch do yourself a favor and head straight up. don't sell your self short and head for the lumpy crack on the left. it is an ocean of cobble stones, dive in :) May 29, 2017
Jordan Weiler
Jordan Weiler   Durango
My buddy got a nut stuck at the start of the 2nd pitch, mite now be a fixed pro now haha Sep 10, 2018

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