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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,062 total, 8/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1. Climb an easy (5.2), run out face past a couple of small trees to a large belay ledge. The protection on this pitch is a little sparse. I slung one of the small trees and placed a questionable cam.

P2. Fun pitch. Climb the face above the belay ledge and work right to the obvious right-facing dihedral. Step around the corner and into the dihedral. Follow the fun dihedral almost to the top where easy scrambling leads to another good belay to the right of a pine.

To descend, pick up the trail at the top of the cliff and hike down and left, through the rocky gully to the left of the crag.

Location

Next climb to the right of Commie Pinkos. Start just downhill from the second pine tree.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Bring a couple loose slings to sling the trees on P1.

Photos

Rika J.
Albuquerque, NM
Rika J.   Albuquerque, NM
This climb was really enjoyable. I thought both pitches protected super well. The crux move on the second pitch looks a little intimidating, but it's easy and super protectable. May 1, 2017