Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 647 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jun 14, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the wide crack continuing straight up after it narrows. At roughly 30 feet, trend left near a potatoe-sized cactus (June 2010) to a smaller crack: the "middle crack" of Clark's guide? Follow this right-trending crack to where it naturally ends, stepping right into a wider crack (approx 2 inch gear where it necks down). Continue up through the well-protected crux (5.6 or 5.7) and beyond.

Once one exits the crack system proper, look left about 7 feet to find the bolted rap station. One 60 meter rope rap works but be sure to hang it by the middle.

Location

The route is to climber's left of both Cave Woman and Shoes for Industry. Probably, the best thing is to find the characteristic roof of Shoes for Industry: short, reddish face to yellow lichen below a smallish triangular roof with finger crack above. Then look back left for the "monolithic slab" described in Gary Clark's guide. This slab stands out from the general surface of the cliff that extends to the right of this slab. The "monolithic slab" is fairly broken with cracks, more so in the lower half. We started up an approximate 2 foot wide crack that quickly narrows down after 10 or 15 feet.

Protection

Standard rack to 2 or 3 inches. I only say "3 inches" because I can't recall if I used my number 3; either way, it likely was not needed.

Anchor bolts with chains at the top. A 60m rope will get you to the bottom.

Photos