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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Lynn and Gary Clark
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Minesh Bacrania on Aug 11, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Easy low-5th-class climbing to the roof. Make one well-protected ~5.8(+?) move to get up and over, and then it's uneventful 5.6 with good gear to the top.

It's kind of a letdown after the roof, and therefore probably not worth the anchor/downclimb hassle.

Location

From the base of Cave Woman, walk left 50' through some bushes and start under the small roof. Descent: go up and over into the gully, same descent as Cave Woman.

Protection

Tips/finger-size gear for the crux. Std. rack to BD #1 or #2 for the rest. Big gear (BD #3, #4, big hexes/nuts) and some webbing is sufficient for an anchor at the top.

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8-
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8-
There is now a bolted rap station that is very easy to find near the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope rap works but be sure to hang it by the middle. The bolted rap anchor is before the 6" juniper that has been used for rapping. Jun 2, 2013
Crux roof can be bypassed left, keeping the climb ~5.6. May 5, 2013
Gary Clark suggests: "Stay left in the upper part to keep the climb interesting." Aug 11, 2008