Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,922 total · 15/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good trad route that goes over the Juniper roof on its left side. A 50 m rope is sufficient.

p1: Start about 20 ft. right of Big E below a rectangular cutout which is about 70 ft. up. There's some vegetation heading up to the cutout. Climb over the ceiling of the cutout (5.7) and continue to a nice belay ledge. There is a 2-4" wide vertical crack for building a belay anchor.

p2: Climb straight up and trend left toward the right-facing dihedral below the roof. The climbing gets thin (5.9+) just below the roof. Stoppers and tri-cams are useful in the dihedral and for the roof move. The climbing gets easier above the roof. Continue to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Location

The start is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. For the descent, hike left from the anchors and then scramble/hike up for about 2-3 minutes until you see cairns for a good descent trail.

Protection

gear: set of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double-length runners; small tri-cams are useful.
anchors: gear on p1, bolted anchors on p2.

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