Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,420 total · 17/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 with improvements by Anna Brown
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good trad route that goes over the Juniper roof on its left side. A 50 m rope is sufficient.

p1: Start about 20 ft. right of Big E below a rectangular cutout which is about 70 ft. up. There's some vegetation heading up to the cutout. Climb over the ceiling of the cutout (5.7) and continue to a nice belay ledge. There is a 2-4" wide vertical crack for building a belay anchor.

p2: Climb straight up and trend left toward the right-facing dihedral below the roof. The climbing gets thin (5.9+) just below the roof. Stoppers and tri-cams are useful in the dihedral and for the roof move. The climbing gets easier above the roof. Continue to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Location

The start is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground.

To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

gear: set of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double-length runners; small tri-cams are useful.
anchors: gear on p1, bolted anchors on p2.

Photos

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