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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Olsen - Fritz Devendorf
Page Views: 901 total, 13/month
Shared By: James Olsen on May 10, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

1st Pitch: Start at the beginning of the Guillotine, but partway up veer a little more right. This makes for a more sustained grade. Head for the right side of a pocket ledge a little higher and about 15' to the right of the Guillotine ledge. You will be about 5' from the rollover edge of the face as you approach the top of the pitch. Near the top of the pitch is the 5.7 crux; some sloping hands and feet in an area without placements, not quite runout. (185')

2nd Pitch: Go straight up from climber's right side of ledge to a ledge above, then continue upward, drifting right to a substantial tree. First part of the lead is exposed 5.6. (about 75')

3rd Pitch: Go up gully with a crack to a face, then up face. As you ascend you first drift a little right, then drift a little left. First part is 5.5. (about 70')

Route changes character as you ascend, and the beginning of the second pitch is most gratifyng.

Location

The route starts at the same place as the Guillotine and ends up on the highest bit of the crag. You can scramble climbers left and rap down Juniper overhang, carefully scramble climbers right on a discontinuous ledge to a second and final rap station, or walk down around the west end of the crag.

Protection

Bring a typical El Rito rack with cams to 3.0 or better 3.5. and an extra piece of sling material at least 8' long. This is a totally trad route. At second belay sling knob and tie to 2 larger cams placed in shallow crack like feature. If you tie all together it will probably make an adequate anchor.

Photos

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Matt Price  
 
I believe this is a newer route, and there's probably a good reason the earlier routes avoided this upper section of the wall. Although the climbing may be 'fun' the rock quality it not very good (dare I say chossy?) and it gets pretty difficult to find good places for gear. Sep 20, 2017
p2 + p3 can be linked without bad rope drag. Apr 26, 2013
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.6
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.6
P1 can be broken into two by belaying at ~105 feet at an adequate ledge (recently cleaned) at the lower end of an obvious vertical crack. Higher up, the route passes just a bit to the right of the guillotine feature of Guillotine, and then trends right a bit more and then up to the right end of the "pocket ledge".

For an anchor at the pocket ledge, there is a big broad horn of questionable attachment. Alternately, the back of the ledge has a spot for ~3 and ~4 inch pieces of gear.

P2 & P3 are delightful. Jun 11, 2012