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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade V
FA: Noel Childs, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout, 1986ish
Page Views: 1,982 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Zoom in on the picture of my old 1989 Rock & Ice topo.

Location

This route is the center of interest for the Wall Climber. Bill Forrest, of Painted-Wall-without-bolts fame, told me he'd tried the Parallel Universe line. The route begins with two potentially classic corners. The problem is that the first corner is never dry. I think Noel freed the second, which is usually dry, 5.11+? Above the highest bailout gear, we definitly drilled a few holes on this route. Check the topo/image for beta.

Protection

A rare chance to bring the RURPs, mashies, and hooks. The first corners take smaller stuff like stopper and aliens. Lots of Camalots for the long, leftward, wet-flake traverse into space. Then all the thin aid stuff gets used for the blank, white bulge. The bulge ends happily on an excellent ledge. Noel's Chimney, 5.10, has nice rock and might be better protected now with large Camalots.

I really have not a clue what the modern aid rating for the third pitch might be. Noel provided the most humorous and exhilarating moments when he jumared pitch three as the third-man. He went for broke and jumped off the ledge, instead of lowering out. The resulting pendulum/jumar is completely free hanging until the belay is reached (bomber 1/4" anchors on a foothold ledge).

If you're short on money for gas to the Valley, then this route might help ease the pain.

Photos

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