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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Ken Trout, Summer '08, FFA - Sam B. & Dave M., 07/09
Page Views: 286 total, 3/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

So this is the direct finish to Good Evans.

From the bolted belay on top of the roof, look straight up at the 2 fixed pins in the seam in the headwall (crux). Work your way up a crack system straight up from the belay to an awkward stance below a roof. Clip the first pin start pulling the roof, clip your second pin, and pull a large move to a jug. Belay on a cozy ledge 5 feet from the rim.

This makes a much more enjoyable finish to Good Evans adding some awesome, steep, face climbing to the day!

Pins were installed by Ken Trout late summer of '08.

Location

This is the direct finish to Good Evans.

Protection

Small rack from #0.3 to #1. 2 pins + some mid to hand-sized gear for a bomber belay.

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
We finished with this variation, I assumed it was the actual finish of the route. Seems a little harder than 10c, at least in my opinion. Great way to end a spectacular route Jul 23, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
I finished this way up in August, and it was an awesome little way to finish with some sport crankin'! I also thought it was .11a or b. big move off a matched hold! Sep 14, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
According to Ken, he did not know of anyone trying the line prior to him placing the pins. We did this as a mini-adventurous way to finish our day not knowing that it "hadn't" been done.

The name comes from the fact that all marmots are either named "Phil" (the skinny Phil like ones) or "Guss" (the fat well... Guss like ones).

If any one did this before us, I will remove our shenanagans, but for now this is great finish to a great route. Aug 14, 2009