Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||3,975 total, 78/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Wilder on Oct 13, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route follows a bunch of cool features on the right side of the wall in an area that seems to be dry often. The style is varied though it requires a significant amount of crack climbing. As is standard on the Black Wall, the rock is fairly scaly in parts. Most of this comes off with traffic leaving behind perfect granite. The climbing is great, and as it sees more traffic, I think this route could become a classic. 3 bolts were added to protect the crux pitches in addition to 2 two-bolt belays (all 1/2 inch by 2 and 3/4 inch stainless steel bolts). All pitch lengths below are rough estimates:
Pitch 1: Follow the crack / corner up and right to lower angled terrain. Mostly just follow the path of least resistance. Belay on a ledge where the rock becomes more vertical and there are less grassy clumps. Gear belay (5.8, 100 feet).
Pitch 2: Start up the corner, and then after about 20-30 feet of climbing, head left on flakes. Climb up a big undercling / left-facing flake left of the main crack to a small ledge that joins the main crack. Belay here or go up 10 more feet to another ledge. Gear belay (11a, 70 feet).
Pitch 3: Follow the crack / corner up to the chimney feature and squeeze your way out the left side. Continue your way past bigger blocks that appear, and may be, somewhat loose. A couple more bouldery moves and you get to the big grassy ledge. Gear belay (10c, 160 feet).
Pitch 4: Climb the left-most crack in the corner for about 30-40 feet. Eventually trend right on cracks that lead up to the roof and follow juggy holds up and right around the roof and onto a small ledge. Gear belay (10c, 80 feet).
Pitch 5: Follow the crack in the corner via mostly easier climbing. Continue up to a small ledge. At this point, the corner continues to the left and a cool seam splits the bulge above. Follow some face moves out right to get into the seam and clip a bolt. Pull crux sloper moves through a bulge that leads to easier climbing up to a ledge. Bolt belay (12b, 100 feet).
Pitch 6: Move out right to enter a collection of flared cracks. Move past some decent gear and then up to a bolt. Continue up and slightly right to the big, horizontal ledge. Cut back left a bit through the roof to join the corner. Pull another smaller roof into the full corner and climb halfway up to a no-hands stem. Gear belay (12b, 60 feet).
Pitch 7: Continue up the corner and around to the left to a bouldery crux that lead up to horizontals. Follow the horizontals right to the arete. Make a long reach to clip the bolt and then follow the arete via slappy moves. Continue up the arete switching sides a couple of times until reaching a ledge just below the top of the cliff. Bolt belay (12a, 80 feet).
Pitch 8: Climb straight up through the roof if dry (5.10b). Otherwise climb out right through the easier weakness to gain the summit. There is a bolt belay on the short wall up and right (this is the top of Rainbow Highway). Bolt belay (10b, 30 feet).
LocationStart at the base of the wall between Coffee Achievers and Emerald Highway. Probably the best way to get to the base is via the raps on the Good Evans side of the wall. Go all the way down the base, and then hike along the wall. It would be difficult to rap the route, because the lower pitches are angled. Though it could probably be done with two ropes and directionals.
To find the start of the route, identify the obvious overhanging / left-angling chimney about 250 feet up the wall. This is the main feature of the lower part of the route. Follow the obvious crack down from the roof until it is less distinct and intersects the lower angled terrain. That intersection point is the top of the first pitch. Start left of this point at the base of a somewhat grassy right-angling ramp/corner/crack.