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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Of rappel: K trout , Tom Vanco, 1985 +- Of climb: Maurice Reed, Trout, 1990+-
Page Views: 191 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route was climbed as part of a near miss on Cary Granite. Maurice's high point the lip of the roof and reached the sharp-edged, diagonal crack. But we did discover that doing the route labled 'A' on the topo was really nice.

Do the first pitch of Good Evans, 5.10+ route crux. Steel nuts protect thin moves using black xenoliths and the seam. This has excellent rock quality. Maybe it is only 5.8, A0 if you aid the short crux.

Do the second pitch of Cary Granite; 5.10 fingers-liebacking on beautiful, polished rock. Pass the point where Cary Granite takes a right. End at the single-bolt & double pin rap anchor. Shown as red dots on the topo-image.

Maurice and I added in an extra pitch, and some 5.11-, by deviating onto Cary Granite.

The final pitch, 5.4, starts wide, even takes smaller gear, and is 5.8 only when wet. Pass the two bolt rap station, ignore the tempting ledges, and stretch it to the top, 45 meters. The last move is also noted as 5.8 on the old topo, that's when wet. Nice 5.3 finish to the chains. A large stoppper and small sling thread help back up a more comfortable sitting belay, instead of hanging off the chains.

Location

See the map photo.

Protection

Bring a standard Eldo Rack with bit of Valley too?! Yeah, I have no clue.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Good Evans was crowded, so we went this way, taking the Cary Granite p2 up the dihedrals & through the undercling roof. I then went straight left on the ledge (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and got on top of the somewhat precarious looking flake to a bolt anchor. Then it's one more long pitch (kinda crappy) up the rap route to the anchors.

We had a rack for Good Evans, and that was fine for this route.

Overall, not really recommended as your planned route but a decent bail option. Sep 13, 2015