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Routes in The Black Wall
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Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Black Mamba T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Cannonball Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Coffee Achievers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Harry Caray T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Variance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mer Dascht (We Thirst) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R |
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Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Seven Sins (Sinners on Sunday to High Variance) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sinners On Sunday T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 R |
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Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1- |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.6064, -105.65409 |
| FA: | Of rappel: K trout , Tom Vanco, 1985 +- Of climb: Maurice Reed, Trout, 1990+- |
| Page Views: | 1,279 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Jul 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 - road closure
Details
Description
This route was climbed as part of a near miss on Cary Granite. Maurice's high point the lip of the roof and reached the sharp-edged, diagonal crack. But we did discover that doing the route labled 'A' on the topo was really nice.
Do the first pitch of Good Evans, 5.10+ route crux. Steel nuts protect thin moves using black xenoliths and the seam. This has excellent rock quality. Maybe it is only 5.8, A0 if you aid the short crux.
Do the second pitch of Cary Granite; 5.10 fingers-liebacking on beautiful, polished rock. Pass the point where Cary Granite takes a right. End at the single-bolt & double pin rap anchor. Shown as red dots on the topo-image.
Maurice and I added in an extra pitch, and some 5.11-, by deviating onto Cary Granite.
The final pitch, 5.4, starts wide, even takes smaller gear, and is 5.8 only when wet. Pass the two bolt rap station, ignore the tempting ledges, and stretch it to the top, 45 meters. The last move is also noted as 5.8 on the old topo, that's when wet. Nice 5.3 finish to the chains. A large stoppper and small sling thread help back up a more comfortable sitting belay, instead of hanging off the chains.
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