Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 640 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky|
|Page Views:||183 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the obvious crack system just left of Coffee Achievers (which, by the way, is a great route that rarely gets done). Espresso merges with Coffee Achievers at the top of the 4th pitch.
Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route, and scramble north (right) along the base of the wall, past the Rusty Dagger and Parallel Universe aid routes. The route begins on a large ledge about 50 feet above the base of the wall, which is just north and a bit down (via a 4th class chimney) from the larger, grassy ledge from which Parallel Universe is accessed. Note that, although this climb is adjacent to Coffee Achievers, you access Coffee Achievers from the valley floor rather than by traversing the base of the Black Wall.
P1). Climb up the finger and hand crack on the far, right side of the ledge (5.10) to a stance.
P2). Continue up the crack using stem, layback, and crack techniques (5.11a) to easier climbing, and then continue up the crack to the same ledge system that forms the 3rd belay of Coffee Achievers. Note that the Espresso belay is well left of the Coffee Achievers belay on this ledge system.
P3). Traverse left about 40 feet to an obvious boulder, then climb a beautiful, shallow, left-facing dihedral (5.10+) to a stance on top of a pillar-like feature.
P4). Continue up and right about 60 feet to the base of the chimney slot which is also the belay for Coffee Achievers.
P5). Climb through the often wet chimney, through an overhanging (but easy) hand crack. Above this, stem up a pegmatatic section until you can gain access to the left wall, and two, horizontal cracks. A tough move, 5.10, to actually gain the wall gets you to the cracks. Follow the cracks out straight left (5.9) until you get to easier ground. Another 40 feet of easy climbing puts you on top.