Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 640 ft (194 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky|
|Page Views:||774 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route, and scramble north (right) along the base of the wall, past the Rusty Dagger and Parallel Universe aid routes. The route begins on a large ledge about 50 feet above the base of the wall, which is just north and a bit down (via a 4th class chimney) from the larger, grassy ledge from which Parallel Universe is accessed. Note that, although this climb is adjacent to Coffee Achievers, you access Coffee Achievers from the valley floor rather than by traversing the base of the Black Wall.
P1). Climb up the finger and hand crack on the far, right side of the ledge (5.10) to a stance.
P2). Continue up the crack using stem, layback, and crack techniques (5.11a) to easier climbing, and then continue up the crack to the same ledge system that forms the 3rd belay of Coffee Achievers. Note that the Espresso belay is well left of the Coffee Achievers belay on this ledge system.
P3). Traverse left about 40 feet to an obvious boulder, then climb a shallow, left-facing dihedral with a bush or two (5.10) to a stance on top of a pillar-like feature.
P4). Continue up and right about 60 feet to the base of the chimney slot which is also the belay for Coffee Achievers.
P5). Climb through the often wet chimney, through an overhanging (but easy) hand crack. Above this, stem up a pegmatitic section until you can gain access to the left wall, and two, horizontal cracks. A tough move, 5.10, to actually gain the wall gets you to the cracks. Follow the cracks out straight left (5.9) until you get to easier ground. Another 40 feet of easy climbing puts you on top.