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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 640 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky
Page Views: 186 total, 1/month
Shared By: Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious crack system just left of Coffee Achievers (which, by the way, is a great route that rarely gets done). Espresso merges with Coffee Achievers at the top of the 4th pitch.

Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route, and scramble north (right) along the base of the wall, past the Rusty Dagger and Parallel Universe aid routes. The route begins on a large ledge about 50 feet above the base of the wall, which is just north and a bit down (via a 4th class chimney) from the larger, grassy ledge from which Parallel Universe is accessed. Note that, although this climb is adjacent to Coffee Achievers, you access Coffee Achievers from the valley floor rather than by traversing the base of the Black Wall.

P1). Climb up the finger and hand crack on the far, right side of the ledge (5.10) to a stance.

P2). Continue up the crack using stem, layback, and crack techniques (5.11a) to easier climbing, and then continue up the crack to the same ledge system that forms the 3rd belay of Coffee Achievers. Note that the Espresso belay is well left of the Coffee Achievers belay on this ledge system.

P3). Traverse left about 40 feet to an obvious boulder, then climb a beautiful, shallow, left-facing dihedral (5.10+) to a stance on top of a pillar-like feature.

P4). Continue up and right about 60 feet to the base of the chimney slot which is also the belay for Coffee Achievers.

P5). Climb through the often wet chimney, through an overhanging (but easy) hand crack. Above this, stem up a pegmatatic section until you can gain access to the left wall, and two, horizontal cracks. A tough move, 5.10, to actually gain the wall gets you to the cracks. Follow the cracks out straight left (5.9) until you get to easier ground. Another 40 feet of easy climbing puts you on top.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot (2).

Photos

Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
Got bouted on this route on 8/11. We left some stoppers and slung great horn near top P1 to escape. Did the walk of shame in climbing shoes climber's right of the wall to get back out. Definitely be prepared for some adventure on this route! Sep 15, 2011
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Tough route at high altitude! Has anyone climbed the cracks on the left face of the 3rd pitch? They would be aid. Overall, a very adventurous route! Stays dry through rain and snow! Some good ones and some frightening sections. Aug 31, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11-
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11-
Climbed this route Sat with Jay. I'd give it 2 stars overall, however, the crux pitch and the 10+ pitch above are outstanding. It still needs to clean up a bit though. The last few pitches are junk which were quite wet and mossy. Aug 30, 2009
P1 - 30 meters to a ledge on the right. 5.10.
P2 - 55 meters. Solid 5.11. Traversed left from belay on some xenolithes to a 5.9 crack and then back right into the arching crack. A bit of flakey / crumbly rock here. Bats too. After the crack, keep angling left to the base of the obvious left facing corner. Might get better after alot of ascents, but right now this pitch is kinda nasty.
P3 - 45 meters. Some spicey, crumbly 5.10 climbing off the belay into a pretty good, 5.10, left-facing corner passing lots of interesting shrubbery. Belay after a roof on right with a couple extra hand-size pieces &/or a slung chockstone.
P4 - 30 meters. Go up 9+ pink double hand cracks to another xenolith face climbing section (or possible wide crack section on right)Belay where you can find a dry spot.
P5 - 40 meters, 5.10b. Up and then traverse / stem left to obvious horizontal cracks (some fixed nuts up there) then continue left and out. Not as wet as predicted.
Overall, kind of an adventurous route. Maybe 1 star. Needs more traffic. Standard rack with doubles thru 4 Camalot. No fixed anchors. Jul 24, 2008