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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, June, 2010
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The climbing on this route is really quite nice. If it were longer, it would be a really good route.

1) Climb the dihedral listed below, climb through the roof and belay on a nice ledge on the left after 130 feet. 10+.

2) Step right from the ledge climb up a thin flake placing some small gear and traverse right into features leading up into a left-leaning crack. Follow that up to a more broken area and take the first crack system on the right. Run the rope out an belay. 5.10R.

3) Climb up the most fun looking ground above the belay (there are some pleasant bits), ending on a grassy ledge system. 5.8.
To exit, scramble up and right to the top of the Black Wall.

Location

This route is located on the far right side of the Black Wall. Look for the furthest right dihedral that runs into a small roof at 80 feet.

Protection

Standard rack including RPs and very small cams.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Where is the route in relation of the others??? Jul 12, 2010