Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Strappo Hughes in Winter. Never went Free!
Page Views: 2,048 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Jul 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This could be a direct start for Espresso. A nice crack up to a line of bolts past some big xenoliths. 5.11+ is what we remember. The first attempts were initiated by Kirk Miller and Rusty Kirkpatrick about 1989. Noel Childs and Gerry Rock must have been involved, too. Strappo Hughes was first to finish the pitch using double-boots in winter.

Mello approach: Use the Summit Lake gullies both in and out. Axe can be nice of snowfield.

Best descent is to clean the anchor and climb up the ledge toward Rusty Dagger. Classic walk off on ledge (third class) followed by hiking the gully back up to Summit Lake. See Map @ mountainproject.com/images/…


This is the low point of the main wall, an apron below the big traverse ledge that starts Espresso. I remember a giant top rope was set up from the ledge once to work the route.


The usual Black Wall monster rack isn't needed for this pitch. But it would be wise to bring more than a draw rack, just in case.