Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||George Lowe, Greg Cameron|
|Page Views:||7,450 total, 43/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionCannonball Corner is another route done in the early 1990s that never was written up anywhere. This route was actually shown and even named in Ken Trout's 1989 Black Wall article, but it did not appear to have been completed.
Cannonball Corner follows the huge, right-facing dihedral system to the climber's right of Road Warrior. It is primarily a hand crack. Although this route has some great climbing, be warned - the 1st and especially 5th pitches have some loose rock. Also, the 5th pitch is often wet. Be careful on this climb.
Access the route by descending the Black Wall Rappel Route and walking right (north) along the base of the cliff to the base of the corner system.
Scramble up as high as you can, and belay at the start of an obvious corner. The corner that you start in is one corner to the right of the leftmost dihedral in the system.
P1. 150 feet. (5.9). Lieback, stem, and jam up the corner system to a good ledge. There are some loose, flakey sections lower down on this pitch.
P2. 80 feet. (5.9) Continue up the steep corner (5.9) for about 50 feet. Climb on lower angle. easier ground to a good belay ledge.
P3. 80 feet (5.9). Continue up the corner system to a belay ledge below two small roofs.
P4. 50 feet. (5.10+). Stem, lieback, jam, and undercling around the roofs, which are up and right. Climbing around the improbable-looking 2nd roof is the crux (the one place you can use a #5 Camalot is here, near the end of the crux). Belay at a ledge just past the roof.
P5. 90 feet (5.10). Often wet. Climb up and then angle right through the roof system. There's some tricky climbing towards the end of this pitch. Belay at a stance following the hard moves.
P6. 40 feet. (5.8). Make a move right, then easy climbing straight up to the summit.