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The traverse on Pitch 5, above all the loose flakes: The traverse wasn't too bad, despite the soaking wet hand and foot holds, but the big overhang afterward felt like 5.11 with our cold, wet hands.
ID 106006967

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Dougald MacDonald
Aug 12, 2007
The traverse on Pitch 5, above all the loose flakes: The traverse wasn't too bad, despite the soaking wet hand and foot holds, but the big overhang afterward felt like 5.11 with our cold, wet hands.  
No pro? Obviously you weren't scared enough. Look at all my placements in this photo! Interesting note: I pumped out and fell off the last hard move on the roof before the belay ledge, and in the process broke a carabiner. I had placed a piece in such a way that the biner loaded sideways over the lip of the roof. The gate was permanently bent at about a 45-degree angle from the main axis of the biner, but, surprisingly, the carabiner still held the fall, with the rope just lying in the open biner as if it were a cold-shut hook. There was good gear below me, so it was no big deal, but still it was a good lesson to watch my placements more carefully for this possibility. Feb 2, 2009
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Yeah...WET. Apr 22, 2008
Oh yeah, the roof. I guess I must have blocked that part out. NTB since the gear is relatively trustworthy and close by, and great exposure. At least it's not a slimy, polished snowmelt-covered no-pro slab like what you do to get up to it. Mar 7, 2008

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