Type: | Trad, Alpine, 480 ft (145 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | M. Reeser & M. Smith 9/21/2013 |
Page Views: | 4,062 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Matt Reeser on Sep 23, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 - road closure
Details
Mt. Blue Sky Rd. will be closed for the 2025 season. All crags will be accessible only via hiking. kdvr.com/news/local/mount-b….
Description
This is a tips to fingers variation into the roof pitch of Cary Granite. Instead of traversing in from atop the 2nd pitch of Cary Granite, traverse in from the 2nd pitch of Good Evans.
P1: Climb the first pitch of Good Evans, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).
P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the Good Evans crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the Cary Granite roof and beyond (5.11).
P3: Climb to the top (5.10).
Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of Cary Granite, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is nowhere near as hard as the traverse in from the original route (probably 5.9).
P1: Climb the first pitch of Good Evans, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).
P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the Good Evans crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the Cary Granite roof and beyond (5.11).
P3: Climb to the top (5.10).
Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of Cary Granite, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is nowhere near as hard as the traverse in from the original route (probably 5.9).
Protection
Use the same as for Cary Granite, but add some RPs and finger-sized pieces for the variation.
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