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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: J. Thompson, D. Haller, B. Collett, July, 2010
Page Views: 2,893 total, 32/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows mostly continuous cracks for the length of the wall. With a few more ascents, it is a really nice continuous outing.

1) Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. After about 40 feet, it ends at a ledge. Above the ledge is an arch. Follow the arch to its apex, and face climb up to a small ledge above below another arch. 90 feet, 5.10+.

2) Climb over the arch, clip a bolt and climb left past a second bolt to a shallow left facing corner. Follow this until you can step left on to a ledgy system and a two bolt belay. 5.10-, 90 feet.

3) Head towards the large obvious corner. Climb up into the corner system using a nice hand crack on the left to avoid the blank section in the beginning. Belay at a two bolt belay on the right wall. 5.10, 140 feet.

4) Continue up the crack system passing a roof and belaying at the base of a chimney. 95 feet, 5.10+.

5) Follow the chimney to easier ground and belay at a grassy ledge. 150 feet, 5.9.

6) Climb straight up over a couple of short walls and find yourself at the base of a chimney after about 80 feet. Follow this to its end and make your way to the top of the wall. 5.7.

Location

On the right side of the Black Wall, there are two prominent roofs that are about 300 feet above the talus. Between the two roofs is an obvious dihedral system. The Emerald Highway follows that system. It starts in a wavy flake system below the dihedral.

Per doug haller: the route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.

Protection

Cams from small to #5 C4. Nuts.
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
 
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
 
Nice work, was hoping to get back this season before the snow flies. Sep 9, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
"Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse. "

I can assure you it was! I led it onsight on the FA, without the bolts. It was...heady.

Have Fun!

josh Sep 4, 2012
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
 
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
 
Pitch 1 10+:
We linked the 2 first pitches together, be sure to use all 24" and 48" runners, we had rope drag at the anchor. Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse.
Pitch 2 10a:
From the 1st bolted belay to the 2nd bolted belay at the large roof, scrambling to the corner without much gear, great splitter crack to bolted belay.
Pitch 3 10+:
2nd bolted belay till 3rd bolted belay, awesome corner likely the crux of the route, without the face holds this route would go much harder, AWESOME pitch, 1 bolt leaving corner heading to belay.
Pitch 4 5.9:
Corner/chimney (lots of loose rock) to easy ground.
Pitch 5 5.9:
We followed route to the immediate right of Rainbow Highway, unprotected, dirty corner, crux being wide flake 2 steps below Rainbow Highway upper rap anchor

Would recommend Rainbow finish instead of Emerald. We carried doubles (Metolius #00 - BD #4) and full set nuts, did not set #4 and could have minimized small selection.

Nice work, Ben, Doug and Josh, for the bolts and belays!
Aug 20, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
The bottom half of this route has been retrobolted (by the FAs) and redone as part of this route:
mountainproject.com/v/rainb…

It's a harder and more direct line.

The upper part of Emerald can also be used to bail off quickly if the need should arise.

Enjoy!

josh Jul 29, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
...that's WAY right of GE and RW.....like the complete other side of the wall.

josh Jul 15, 2010
doug haller
Boulder, Colorado
doug haller   Boulder, Colorado
The route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior. Jul 12, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Where is the route in relation of the others??? Jul 12, 2010