Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ken Trout and Peter Prandoni, 1988?|
|Page Views:||4,859 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||craigw on Aug 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This route rarely gets climbed and can prove to be quite a challenge if you haven't been doing squats on a regular basis.
Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route which will bring you near the base of Good Evans. From here, you will still need to get to the valley floor, which is another 200-300 feet down. We downclimbed for a bit, then used a blue sling rap station to get to the bottom (200 foot rappel). From here, scramble north (right) among the huge boulders, past The Rusty Dagger, Parallel Universe, and Espresso coming to the far right side near a broken up and grassy ledge/chimney section. You will be able to see a pillar with white slings at the top. This is the first pitch (at least, it's the one we did. There are several other sets of slings further to the right--maybe variations or other climbs???)
Pitch 1 - Climb to the top of a pillar using a thin crack and face holds-belay out right. 5.9ish, 180-190 feet.
Per Greg Cameron: start on a highly-vegetated section of easy climbing. The original route went to the very top of this easy section to gain access to a left-slanting crack which is up and right of the first left-slanting crack system that you encounter. A rib of rock separates the two. If you do the crack on the left side of the rib (as a continuation of pitch 1), you will end up at the base of the overhanging 5.10+ fist crack described in the route description. Just past the overhang you merge with the actual route. If you do the crack on the right side of the rib, the description that I posted above (and Ken's original description) is relevant. The original route is much cleaner and a little easier.
Pitch 2 - Climb the overhanging fist crack out right--felt pretty hard 10+?--We belayed after the overhang.
Pitch 3 - Go up a left-angling crack system with many liebacks, 5.10.
Pitch 4 - Do more liebacking up the same crack system eventually working out right onto a small ledge, 5.10.
Pitch 5 - Climb another left-angling crack system with many liebacks (hard pitch 10+). Eventually pulling onto a large ledge with an 3 piton belay--pretty long pitch, 170-180 feet.
Pitch 6 - Climb through the soaking wet, heavily vegetated chimney, eventually stepping out left with some thin face climbing--set hanging belay. The crux pitch?? Nothing felt harder than 5.9/10-, but it is very slick and loose, 130-150 feet.
Pitch 7 - Climb the left-angling crack for 15 feet (5.8) then do a foot traverse with disappearing hands for 15-20 more feet to a wet and vegetated crack that will lead you to the top with some scrambling, 60 feet total??
The old topo we had called this a 5 pitch route. It took us 7 pitches which all were long and strenuous.
Overall, it was a fun, adventurous day, but we felt it was much harder and more committing than Good Evans. There is quite a bit of loose rock and vegetation on this route so wear your helmet and bring some gardening equipment if desired!