Avg: 3 from 32 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||1981 R. McGown, Scott Woolums|
|Page Views:||2,095 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Franzen on Jun 30, 2006|
|Admins:||Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionCritical Mass starts with the 5.10a face/crack Sheer Stress (the holds on this section are polished so it's a bit trickier than it'd normally be). From the anchors continue up and right past six more bolts to an anchor. The crux comes 2/3 of the way to the top at a large bulge. I found all of the clipping stances to be a bit reachy although with quickdraws hung they would be much better.
This route feels like a series of linked boulder problems, in that there are a few tricky sections followed by excellent rests.
The top of the climb ends with a fun series of slab moves and you can continue up the final pitch of Red Eye (5.10c) to the top of the wall.