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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arch de Triumph T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trailer Park Sunset S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 1981 R. McGown, Scott Woolums
Page Views: 2,262 total · 15/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Critical Mass starts with the 5.10a face/crack Sheer Stress (the holds on this section are polished so it's a bit trickier than it'd normally be). From the anchors continue up and right past six more bolts to an anchor. The crux comes 2/3 of the way to the top at a large bulge. I found all of the clipping stances to be a bit reachy although with quickdraws hung they would be much better.

This route feels like a series of linked boulder problems, in that there are a few tricky sections followed by excellent rests.

The top of the climb ends with a fun series of slab moves and you can continue up the final pitch of Red Eye (5.10c) to the top of the wall.

Location

In the middle of the Red Wall. Start at the bolt line a few feet climber's left of the tree in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 60m rope are really all that's needed, although I found a place for a yellow Alien near the bottom; a couple of pieces of this size might be good for piece of mind. There are 3 bolts before the intermediate anchors and then 6 more before reaching the top.

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Adam Therneau
  5.11b
Adam Therneau  
  5.11b
This is a great, varied climb. It makes for a great fully bolted sport pitch by linking it with Thai Stick. Only drawback is the bolt placements; a few are in awkward, hard to reach spots. Jun 1, 2007
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11c
I think combining this with Thai Stick for the start is the way to go. A long runner before you launch into the overhang is a good idea. Apr 18, 2010
ChiHarris
Portland, OR
  5.11c
ChiHarris   Portland, OR
  5.11c
Great climb, awkward cruz makes you think, safe falls, NOT POLISHED:) Sep 20, 2012
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
3 bolts were replaced with SS bolts, and anchor clips were add to the anchor, and the anchor was moved about 2' higher to prevent the rope from rubbing against the rock when lowering. Two of the old bolts are still in the rock, as we were unable to get them out. We will be back with tools to remove them soon. Jun 7, 2015

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