Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: 1981 R. McGown, Scott Woolums
Page Views: 3,220 total · 17/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Critical Mass starts with the 5.10a face/crack Sheer Stress (the holds on this section are polished so it's a bit trickier than it'd normally be). From the anchors continue up and right past six more bolts to an anchor. The crux comes 2/3 of the way to the top at a large bulge. I found all of the clipping stances to be a bit reachy although with quickdraws hung they would be much better.

This route feels like a series of linked boulder problems, in that there are a few tricky sections followed by excellent rests.

The top of the climb ends with a fun series of slab moves and you can continue up the final pitch of Red Eye (5.10c) to the top of the wall.

Location

In the middle of the Red Wall. Start at the bolt line a few feet climber's left of the tree in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 60m rope are really all that's needed, although I found a place for a yellow Alien near the bottom; a couple of pieces of this size might be good for piece of mind. There are 3 bolts before the intermediate anchors and then 6 more before reaching the top.

Photos