Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,459 total · 12/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

With a technical start and a powerful middle, Shoot From the Hip offers a little bit of everything. The crux comes roughly half way up the climb, just past the first clip and requires a strenuous lock-off and dynamic move. However, the delicate start or the tricky top section could cause you to fall too.

Location

On the right side of Red Wall, just right of Hard Body.

Protection

Bolts and small cams or nuts for the start.

Photos

Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10d
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10d
Wow, hardest .10c ever! Although, i guess it helps if you don't do it in 90 degree heat....

The first bolt needs to be replaced or tightened. Gear beta is pretty easy, yellow TCU, blue TCU, blue alien. I took nuts up but didn't place any, the crack is a little weird. Aug 2, 2009
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10d
Not sure where 5.10c came from... Oct 3, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10d
All lead bolts have been upgraded to SS bolts and hangers. Nov 9, 2014
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nice, thanks for the bolt upgrade. Feb 21, 2015
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
This route does feel like a very hard 10c onsight. I don't think the description posted here is accurate though. The beta is strange to figure out first go, but once you've climbed the route there isn't any strenuous lock-off or dynamic move required.

Chimney technique will get you passed the first bolt and into a fingerlock and then up to the lieback. Look for the holds that aren't necessarily painted in chalk. There are multiple unchalked bomber holds on this route. Up top it can be hard to find the best hold for your right hand as your left reaches to the final ledge before the upper slab. Technique will get you through instead of power. Mar 31, 2015