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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,325 total, 12/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

With a technical start and a powerful middle, Shoot From the Hip offers a little bit of everything. The crux comes roughly half way up the climb, just past the first clip and requires a strenuous lock-off and dynamic move. However, the delicate start or the tricky top section could cause you to fall too.

Location

On the right side of Red Wall, just right of Hard Body.

Protection

Bolts and small cams or nuts for the start.

Photos

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
This route does feel like a very hard 10c onsight. I don't think the description posted here is accurate though. The beta is strange to figure out first go, but once you've climbed the route there isn't any strenuous lock-off or dynamic move required.

Chimney technique will get you passed the first bolt and into a fingerlock and then up to the lieback. Look for the holds that aren't necessarily painted in chalk. There are multiple unchalked bomber holds on this route. Up top it can be hard to find the best hold for your right hand as your left reaches to the final ledge before the upper slab. Technique will get you through instead of power. Mar 31, 2015
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nice, thanks for the bolt upgrade. Feb 21, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10d
All lead bolts have been upgraded to SS bolts and hangers. Nov 9, 2014
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10d
Not sure where 5.10c came from... Oct 3, 2014
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10d
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10d
Wow, hardest .10c ever! Although, i guess it helps if you don't do it in 90 degree heat....

The first bolt needs to be replaced or tightened. Gear beta is pretty easy, yellow TCU, blue TCU, blue alien. I took nuts up but didn't place any, the crack is a little weird. Aug 2, 2009