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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,804 total, 18/month
Shared By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A short, popular TR with an interesting flare section. This route sees a lot of traffic, probably due to the ease of setting it up as a Top-rope. Climb a slabby section following edges & thin crack to a good stance below the obvious flaring pod. The crux sequence up & through the pod can be tough to figure out at first, but after figuring out the moves, this is easy for 5.9 and over quickly. After the pod a few more easy moves take you to the anchor.

Location

On the far left side or Red Wall - just above the rescue litter - it's the obvious flare about 20' left of classic crack. To set a TR, follow the trail to the left from the base of the climb, and then back around to the right to reach the ledge by scrambling over & behind a boulder.

Protection

Normally Top-roped.
Gear placements on lead are sparse and marginal, so not really recommended to lead this on your first time.

Photos

The Back-board wasn't there this past weekend(5/13/17), the whole assembly was gone. May 14, 2017
hemp22
 
hemp22  
 
if I remember correctly, there's a decent nut at the left side of the narrow rail (near the climber's left heel in the picture), and a sketchy orange TCU in the back of the flare.
Definitely best to just TR. Apr 20, 2012