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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,408 total, 11/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

A technical route with a demanding and interesting crux, Hard Body offers continuous climbing with little rest until the chains are clipped. Like the name implies, you had better be a hard body, for the crux requires some body tension. P.S. It is said that climbing this route in 80's style lycra will do you good.

Location

Red Wall Right, to the right of Sheer Energy.

Protection

Sport.

Photos

I think the more time I've spent on this climb, the more I've come to enjoy it. There are some really interesting sequences that become a lot easier once you suss out the beta. The route is fairly sustained and despite looking fairly steep at the crux, is mostly a challenge of endurance and dealing with tenuous balance-testing positions.

A Broughton classic in my book for sure. Jun 5, 2013
hemp22
  5.11b
hemp22  
  5.11b
I think the chains are easy to clip if you first climb high enough to reach the jug ledge that's above the chains (although this is a pretty spooky move on lead). Trying to clip the anchors below from lower is definitely awkward Jul 20, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11c
Thought the anchors were poorly placed on this one. Unnecessarilly hard to clip. Oct 20, 2009