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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: FFA 2/5/92 by Dave Sowerby
Page Views: 172 total, 9/month
Shared By: another Chad on May 12, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A bouldery climb that takes on the face between Sheer Stress and Sheer Energy. Easy column climbing leads to the first bolt and the start of the crux. Clip the first bolt with a single carabiner and ask your belayer to keep the slack to a minimum. The climbing off of the column is very bouldery and stout. After the second bolt, fun 5.10 climbing is all that's left.

Protection

Bolts & fixed anchor (shared with Sheer Stress & Sheer Energy)

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.12b/c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.12b/c
TR'd this a couple times today. The crux is quite stout, and it felt like 5.12c to me. I didn't get it clean, but made good progress. It's certainly harder than any of the 5.12s I've done locally so far, including a couple 5.12c's. The climbing outside of the crux is quite fun, and this route would be a fun mid-5.12 tick if graded correctly. As it is, the assigned grade makes it frustrating. Think of it as a 5.12 and go have fun on it! Easy to TR.
I'm also planning to move the first bolt left about 1', and that should eliminate the "R" rating completely. May 18, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.12b/c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.12b/c
This is a direct quote from Dave Sowerby a while back "Routes should (and occasionly do) get regraded if they're way out of line, but if they're close (half a letter grade?) we don't usually bother and gladly accept the higher grade".

With that in mind, I'd say list the grade at what it actually is, not the ridiculous sandbagged grade. May 16, 2016
another Chad  
 
Out of respect to the first ascentionist, I added this climb to the MP database as a 5.11+. Having climbed most of the 5.11's and many of the 5.12's at Broughton, I strongly believe that Opus is considerably harder than 11+. It is an outlier at a crag that is already known for having stiff grades.

Chad

  • edit 5/18/16: Ok, the route grade has been changed to reflect reality. Considering how difficult Opus is in relation to other routes at Broughton, mid 5.12 seems justified.
May 12, 2016