Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob McGown
Page Views: 2,537 total · 18/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Wow! This is a true trad tick. Physical Graffiti starts with fun, but tricky face climbing which then leads to the cool overhang near the top with a zig-zag crack splitting the middle. A difficult exit over the roof holds many sequences; find yours.

Location

Red Wall, left side

Protection

Trad, with some bolts on Habitual Ritual

Photos

hemp22
  5.10d
hemp22  
  5.10d
The approach as described above is to follow the bolts on P1 of hit the highway, and then follow "tricky" face climbing up & left to the ledge below the roof crack - use this direct approach to climb the roof crack in a single pitch from the ground.
The original climb actually has a separate first pitch: start by scrambling up the left side of the cliff, as if accessing the ledge to top-rope anastasia/classic crack - but instead of heading right to the ledge, start climbing straight up a corner & ledge system until you reach a single bolt under an overhang - then hand traverse right ~15 feet to reach the anchor & ledge below the roof crack. Belay up your 2nd from here before attacking the roof. This first pitch is ~5.7-5.8. May 13, 2009
Nick Ehman
Bloomington, IN
 
Nick Ehman   Bloomington, IN
 
What a cool route! Burly overhanging jams in one of the coolest positions on the wall. Pulling the lip was the highlight of my day. A little short but very sweet. Started the pitch at the ledge above classic rack and such and used the direct start as described. Very enjoyable and highly recommended. Sep 15, 2013
another Chad
  5.10+
another Chad  
  5.10+
Crack boulder problem.

Chad Jun 4, 2014