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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob McGown
Page Views: 2,269 total, 18/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Wow! This is a true trad tick. Physical Graffiti starts with fun, but tricky face climbing which then leads to the cool overhang near the top with a zig-zag crack splitting the middle. A difficult exit over the roof holds many sequences; find yours.

Location

Red Wall, left side

Protection

Trad, with some bolts on Habitual Ritual

Photos

another Chad
  5.10+
another Chad  
  5.10+
Crack boulder problem.

Chad Jun 4, 2014
nickehman
Fresno, CA
 
nickehman   Fresno, CA
 
What a cool route! Burly overhanging jams in one of the coolest positions on the wall. Pulling the lip was the highlight of my day. A little short but very sweet. Started the pitch at the ledge above classic rack and such and used the direct start as described. Very enjoyable and highly recommended. Sep 15, 2013
hemp22
  5.10d
hemp22  
  5.10d
The approach as described above is to follow the bolts on P1 of hit the highway, and then follow "tricky" face climbing up & left to the ledge below the roof crack - use this direct approach to climb the roof crack in a single pitch from the ground.
The original climb actually has a separate first pitch: start by scrambling up the left side of the cliff, as if accessing the ledge to top-rope anastasia/classic crack - but instead of heading right to the ledge, start climbing straight up a corner & ledge system until you reach a single bolt under an overhang - then hand traverse right ~15 feet to reach the anchor & ledge below the roof crack. Belay up your 2nd from here before attacking the roof. This first pitch is ~5.7-5.8. May 13, 2009