Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Priest & Charlie Martin-1975
Page Views: 4,275 total · 30/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.

Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.

Location

At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.

Protection

Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.

Photos

peachy spohn  
 
one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons. Aug 19, 2007
BenCooper  
 
Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one. Nov 22, 2009
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
The 2nd pitch can be strung together as a single long pitch if starting with Sheer Energy and slinging the last bolt as you move right. This is highly recommended. Gear to 4". May 20, 2017