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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Priest & Charlie Martin-1975
Page Views: 3,874 total, 30/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.

Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.

Location

At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.

Protection

Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
The 2nd pitch can be strung together as a single long pitch if starting with Sheer Energy and slinging the last bolt as you move right. This is highly recommended. Gear to 4". May 20, 2017
BenCooper  
 
Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one. Nov 22, 2009
peachy spohn  
 
one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons. Aug 19, 2007