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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arch de Triumph T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trailer Park Sunset S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Ed Welter, Jack Goble-1981
Page Views: 1,247 total · 9/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The awesome toprope problem just to the left of Sheer Stress. Powerful, technical moves make this climb more like a tall boulder problem. Just getting your feet off the ground is a challenge, and it gets harder from there! Ascend using low friction slopers and sidepulls and very bad feet until you finally reach a "real hold" about fifteen feet up, at which point the difficulties become more manageable.

Location

Five feet to the left of Sheer Stress on the Red Wall.

Protection

Toprope problem. Easily TR'ed from the anchors for Thai Stick. Apparently this has been bouldered/soloed, but with a bad landing and committing finish it would be a very serious undertaking.

Photos

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Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
Sick V5 from the start, without a rope. Aug 8, 2007

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