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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,716 total, 17/month
Shared By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun climb with mixed protection.
Climb up to the top of a free-standing blocky pillar. Commit to the moves off the pillar and onto a ledge below a short crack. Once above the crack, reach the first bolt out on the left, and continue face climbing up and to the left to reach the anchors.

This climb can also be linked up into the 2nd pitch of Sheer Stress to make an enjoyable long pitch. Do this by clipping a long sling on the last (3rd) bolt, and then, instead of heading left to the anchors, skip the anchor bolts and head up right to join with Sheer Stress P2. Use slings on the upper pitch to reduce rope drag.

Location

Downhill to the right about 15' from the tree in the middle of Red Wall. Left of the fully-bolted sport climb Hard Body.

Protection

Great nut placements or cams to 1" protect the first half, then 3 bolts + anchors.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Amazing linkup with the 2nd pitch of Sheer Stress! May 20, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.9
Sport clip biners were added to the first pitch. Jun 7, 2015
At the first bolt I stepped left on a tiny hold and climbed the face directly above--and it felt much harder than what I expected for 5.10a (I took a couple of leader falls). One of my partners stayed in the corner and liebacked a well chalked flake, which may have been the 5.10a way. Jul 18, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Great fun route and one of the most straight forward 5.10a routes I've ever done. Much easier than Sheer Stress or Classic Crack next to it! I would also argue that it was easier than The Sickle or Edges and Ledges which are both 5.8. Solid pro and a great tick for new 5.10 leaders. Jun 12, 2012