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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,851 total, 40/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

This short but "classic" crack has purportedly become harder over the years due to glossing from continuous traffic. Nevertheless it is still a great climb with quality moves. A nice feature of this climb is the overhanging rock above it protects the climb from rain.

The climb begins on a small platform. Ascend a wide crack that quickly narrows to finger size. Top out using the crack or traverse left onto face holds.

Rappel or do 5.1 walk off to the left.

Protection

Single set of cams with doubles in the finger sizes. Nice big (questionable) chains at top.
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
Climbed this on top rope the other day with my son Rhys (age 9). He rocked it, I fell more than him. It feels like a HARD 5.9, especially if you're not used to cracks. In a relatively short distance, it has a little bit of everything: hands, fingers, off-width, and some face climbing thrown in near the top. Classic! Jul 19, 2013
berl
Seattle
berl   Seattle
Rich- you climbed it at one of the best times of the year for friction: on a cool dry day after there's been enough rain to wash off all the grease and chalk from the summer. Late summer is a different story! Nov 12, 2012
Rich C  
The first move is a little nervy and that seemed to be the only "slick holds". regardless they are big feet. great finger movement through the middle section. if this was 5 times longer it would be an indian creek mega classic. The routes above it seemed fun too. Nov 11, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Fun route. If your jams are good you shouldn't worry about how slick people say this route is. That being said, if you try to stay in the crack all the way to the top your feet will be on some buttery rock before you make it to the ledge. A great on-sight opportunity. Jun 12, 2012
Ian G.
PDX, OR
 
Ian G.   PDX, OR
 
Really fun. Too bad it's not 100 feet longer... Aug 5, 2009
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
The anchors have been replaced. Jul 22, 2008
Jeffrey Struck
Portland
 
Jeffrey Struck   Portland
 
While there are "nice big chains" at the belay, I remember questioning the integrity of the bolts the last time I was up there. They are not threaded screw-ins (Rawl, Powers, etc.), but big button-heads that are simply hammered in. They may look huge from the outside, but I question how long the bolts actually are. Just because the heads of the bolts are big does not mean they are bomber! Does anyone know the history of these particular anchor bolts?

Otherwise, sweet route, especially if you link it with the short 10c above! Better anchors up there, if I remember right!

P.S. You can put in a piece or two to the left of the bolt anchor if top-roping. Aug 6, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I wanted to add that the route can be TRed by scrambling in from the left (north) side. Nov 13, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick. Jul 27, 2006