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The Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct)
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (3) Red Wall
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Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arch de Triumph T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Classic Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hard Body S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hit the Highway Pitch 2 T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shoot From the Hip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trailer Park Sunset S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Gary Rall |
| Page Views: | 1,003 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Description
This route lies between Red Eye and Critical Mass. It ascends up a skiny black streak, using edges and slopers. The crux comes just after the second clip and consists of a hard sloper move, but some tricky crimps just before are hard too. Approach from Thai Stick or Mr. Bentley and clip the bolt left of the Thai Stick anchors or the anchors themselves. The next bolt is a bit spooky and hard to clip. Finish the route to the Red Eye anchors or into Kashmir. There is a piton between the last bolt and the Red Eye anchors.
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