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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 141 total · 1/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route lies between Red Eye and Critical Mass. It ascends up a skiny black streak, using edges and slopers. The crux comes just after the second clip and consists of a hard sloper move, but some tricky crimps just before are hard too. Approach from Thai Stick or Mr. Bentley and clip the bolt left of the Thai Stick anchors or the anchors themselves. The next bolt is a bit spooky and hard to clip. Finish the route to the Red Eye anchors or into Kashmir. There is a piton between the last bolt and the Red Eye anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route is located on the Red Wall, just above Thai Stick.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts. The old, terrifying bolt was recently replaced with a SS 1/2" bolt. The old bolt is still there until we can get a saw out to cut it out, but there is a new one next to it to use.

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peachy spohn  
 
After the sloper "crux" it is possible to reach out right to a large hold on Critical Mass. This makes the route easier, because one can shake out and chalk up. The route through this section is therefore contrived...the grade given represents moving through the route without the hold to the right. Either way, it is still a fun and energetic route. Sep 15, 2008
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Is this the old route called "The Conspiracy"? described as squeezed between Red Eye and Critical Mass. Originally graded 11+? Oct 24, 2014
peachy spohn  
 
@ Micah Klesick, it appears to be called this in Mr. Olson's 2011/4th Edition to the Portland Rock Climbs. I can say that the main bolt on the climb is old and rusted and every time I clip it my heart begins to beat a little faster. Also, there is a way to escape to Critical Mass, but even by doing this escape I feel the grade is harder than 11+. If you avoid Critical Mass (yes, somewhat contrived) then the grade is stout 12b. I have been climbing it since 2008 and probably should replace the bolt, because it is fun and should see more traffic! Hope this helps and hopefully I'll get around to changing out that bolt for next season. Oct 26, 2014

More About The Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct)

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