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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,325 total · 36/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Red Eye is an extremely fun and popular route. It climbs the head wall just above Classic Crack (it can be approached by Classic Crack, Thai Stick, or the walk up approach) and passes through cool huecos, using powerful moves to gain a ledge--the crux. The anchors are on an obvious ledge up left.

The route can be continued up higher (though it is seldom done) by moving right from the anchors and up a blocky section towards Kashmir's first bolt. From here, stay right and climb the obvious dihedral and crack to the top. It is roughly 60 feet to the second anchor station. The rock is solid, but dirty, and the climbing is solid 5.10.

Location

Red Eye is on the Red Wall, just above Classic Crack.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10b/c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10b/c
This is easily combined with classic crack if you don't place too much pro early on. Jan 23, 2010
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
 
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
 
F.A. Monty Mayko I believe. Feb 4, 2012
another Chad
  5.10c
another Chad  
  5.10c
I'm seeing a lot of 5.10b ratings given to Red Eye. I suspect the same people aren't climbing the second and third pitches!

Chad Dec 9, 2012
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
Felt like really hard 5.10 to me, especially if you've just finished Classic Crack and are continuing on Red Eye. Cool route with a couple big moves. Jul 19, 2013
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10a
First pitch of Red Eye, (linked with Thai Stick, 5.10d) is a classic 5.10a. Definitely not harder than that though...
Amazing rock and moves! Oct 3, 2014
NickP
Golden, CO
NickP   Golden, CO
I haven't climbed P3, but P2 leading up to Kashmir is NO JOKE. The strenuous, insecure, and not-so-obvious crux sequence makes you think twice about your 5.12 redpoint attempt (for me anyway). Definitely well protected though. Oct 7, 2014
Rod J.
Bend, OR
5.10c
Rod J.   Bend, OR
5.10c
I've climbed at ~35 different areas around the US, and have definitely never found a route of this difficulty that was rated a 5.10a! However, I haven't climbed in the Gunks (yet) where I hear the ratings are stiff. If the word 'classic' is interchangeable with 'old school', then maybe. Apr 7, 2016
another Chad
  5.10c
another Chad  
  5.10c
P1? I think that 5.10- is commensurate with other Broughton climbs at that grade. There are quite a few 5.10a's and 10b's there that feel harder to me than the first pitch of Red Eye: Tip City, Short Circuit, The Spring, Gandalf's Grip, Risky Business, and p2 of Loose Block Overhang. If you want to see what 5.10c feels like, check out the second pitch of Red Eye, Shoot From the Hip, Fun In the Mud, Short Fuse, or Superstition. You might reconsider the first pitch of Red Eye as a 5.10c position. ;) Broughton's just a tough place.

Most importantly, hope you had fun on Red Eye and CC!

Chad Apr 8, 2016

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