Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Page Views: 458 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

The difficulty of this climb will vary greatly upon the exact line taken and what is "on" or "off." If you climb just the crack though the roof (crux) it is solid 5.10. Allowing face holds and deviation from the most direct line, it may be 5.10a.
Climb up the jumble of boulders and set pro before getting in the start of the crux, a flaring handjam. Set more pro (in the jam) and them beat the roof one of a few ways. If you use ONLY the crack it may be low 5.11, with a few sensible footholds, it's 5.10. Allowing for deviations from the crack, it might go in as easy as 5.10a. Continue up easier rock on good pro to the top of the cliff.

Location

This is the 4th route encountered after the descent and is just right of '3 Rurps.' It is a hand-jam below an overhang, transitioning to a short and shallow right-facing corner.

Protection

A set of stoppers + cams to 3". A 2.5" cam and a small nut are crux pro.
There is a good, solid tree above this to sling for a belay.

Photos