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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've always been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky and the Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley, summer 83
Page Views: 679 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

A stiff, short little climb that turns out to be a decent problem.

You wouldn't go here to do this climb but if you're looking for new things to do at the local area then this one fits the bill.

Named because first lead won 1 1/2 6 packs of beer of choice when I pulled the lead off. I believe I had to give up 1/2 a pack because I fell or hung and lowered. Yep, that was it, I hung, scoped out some holds and lowered back down.

I believe Jim had tried it and I was giving him grief for not firing up such a short POS so he bet me I couldn't do it.

If I remember correctly, this is a good one to sandbag your buddy on.

My notes say 5.11-, but then say hard lead, bad style.

Not the best memory here, but I think there might be a bit of an issue with getting good gear to keep you from hitting a ledge if you fall off the crux. I believe the crack is good enough but it dies out and then you have to do some face moves with a bit of a fall potential. Since I never thought falling at the Overlook was a good idea, too many broken up features, I've given this a PG13 so you have some forewarning. I just don't remember. Maybe it sows up with a TCU and all is well ? What, 25 years ago ! No wonder I can't remember.

Location

Just to the right of Blunderbuss is a steep, thin, incipient crack that goes for 20-30 feet then turns into face moves.

Protection

Thin stuff and other gear for the upper stuff.

Photos

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11- PG13
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11- PG13
This one's for all the sport climbers at the Overlook, you can count the number of jams on this route with your thumbs. Paul's comments are pretty accurate, even after 25 years. I didn't place anything larger then an Orange Metolius, but multiples of small nuts, micro cams and sliding nuts. The crux is low, with a ledge below, but the small gear seemed solid. Higher the climbing difficulty eases off but the gear is funky, specific and well spaced. A hidden gem on the right side which is dominated by junky rock. Exciting and excellent! Aug 18, 2014
Paul Davidson
  5.11
Paul Davidson  
  5.11
30+ years for the probable 2nd ascent. Has to be stellar!
Actually, my recollection is right there with Zach's.
exciting and excellent (thin) Sep 8, 2014

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