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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: John Gault, Paul Davidson, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,787 total, 15/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 3, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

Not Fade Away is a hard gem set against the backdrop of moderates at the Overlook. With the quality movement and good gear this line would be a classic if it were nestled in somewhere on the Davidson wall at the Forks, not to mention where it stands at the Overlook.

The route essentially starts off a ledge 30 feet up. It is the right most striking dihedral (Jungleland being the left). Begin with big long moves with edges and thin jams (5.11ish) which lead you to a great rest. From here the climbing gets tougher as you move higher, though there are still decent rests before the crux. At the crux you will have to incorporate powerful stemming, tight balance, and if on lead, a calm head, though the gear is good and the air clean. It is more a matter of rubber and leg tension vs. strength.

Location

Toula, I believe had called this the Jungleland section. It is in between the Trinities to the west and Orangeout section to the east. It is very hard to miss if you are looking for it.

Protection

Wires: small to medium, loweballs can be nice. Cams: small to .75 and doubles to triples on some...

Photos

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Will Wright
Phoenix
Will Wright   Phoenix
Unfortunately this area is the current locus of the main swarm. 30+ wasps. Oct 23, 2017
drewp  
A #1 is also quite nice. Jun 28, 2017
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I placed 2 lowe balls, 3 offset micro nuts, and allot of cams in the 000-1 c3 range. Jul 11, 2013
Like Aliens? Or small wireds like RPs? Proud onsight! Jul 11, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Bring a lot of small gear for an onsight. Jul 6, 2013
These two corners went by a number of names over the years.
Originally just called The Lines, the right hand side was named The Shining at 11+ A0 (Davidson, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley) and then finally freed by John Gault after working the moves out on a TR.

An easier but rather wild exit on the right side is to bypass the crux by running it out to the right around the corner on a small ramp. We never felt the climb should end up that way so never considered it a real pitch. OTOH, it was a wild lead that way, very exposed and technically challenging just not 12.

The left hand line was done by Grossman and me in 82 when he was up for my wedding. I believe we called it Redrum, 11+ and I think some A0 at the top.

See photo:
mountainproject.com/v/arizo… Oct 7, 2008
Tamara Hastie
Flagstaff, Arizona
Tamara Hastie   Flagstaff, Arizona
fun short route... Jun 5, 2008