The Shining, AKA Not Fade Away
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
Routes in The Overlook
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Circus du Soleil T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Constant Gardener T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gambit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gingerbread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Head Cheese T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
I've always been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Long Walk, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Magumba's Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Sparky and the Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
Type: | Trad |
FA: | John Gault, Paul Davidson, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley |
Page Views: | 2,465 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 3, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Description
the Shining is a hard gem set against the backdrop of moderates at the Overlook. With the quality movement and good gear this line would be a classic if it were nestled in somewhere on the Davidson wall at the Forks, but it shines all the brighter where it stands at the Overlook.
The route essentially starts off a ledge 30 feet up. It is the right most striking dihedral (Jungleland being the left). Begin with big long moves with edges and thin jams which lead you to a great rest. From here the climbing gets tougher as you move higher, though there are still decent rests before the crux. At the crux you will have to incorporate powerful stemming, tight balance, and if on lead, a calm head, though the gear is good and the air clean. It is more a matter of rubber and leg tension vs. strength.
8 Comments