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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Davidson, John Fleming, September 1977
Page Views: 1,109 total, 10/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...

The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.

The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.

I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.

Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.

Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.

Location

Right of Devil's Deed and Left of Redrum/Jungleland (aka the Left Line) there is an Africa shaped flake. Start the climb off the ledge where the Lines start. Climb the corner and get established into the upper crack.

Protection

Std rack.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11 PG13
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11 PG13
Fun and steep! But after a second time, I don't think I'd do this one again. It's pretty unnerving pulling on that detached flake. Mar 4, 2012
Dustin Wildermuth
Flagstaff, AZ
Dustin Wildermuth   Flagstaff, AZ
PG for sure but I was able to get gear in. Jan 29, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I would say PG on this one. The gear is there, but the fall wouldn't be fun. The most unnerving part of lead is manhandling the giant, slightly detached flake which makes up the crux, and your crux gear. Oct 1, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
I think it's PG - was able to find solid gear every few feet on the difficult terrain. i recall using some small "trick" gear like ballnuts near the crux areas.

The biggest part for me were the wasps hanging out in many of the good holds! It took a lot of clear thinking to avoid disturbing those guys, protect, and find alternate holds! Aug 20, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
Has anyone else led this route? Whats your opinion on the safety of it? Good to go (PG?)? Or a bit sketch (PG13?)? Aug 19, 2009