Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Davidson, John Fleming, September 1977
Page Views: 1,189 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...

The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.

The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.

I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.

Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.

Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.

Location

Right of Devil's Deed and Left of Redrum/Jungleland (aka the Left Line) there is an Africa shaped flake. Start the climb off the ledge where the Lines start. Climb the corner and get established into the upper crack.

Protection

Std rack.

Photos

S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
Has anyone else led this route? Whats your opinion on the safety of it? Good to go (PG?)? Or a bit sketch (PG13?)? Aug 19, 2009
I think it's PG - was able to find solid gear every few feet on the difficult terrain. i recall using some small "trick" gear like ballnuts near the crux areas.

The biggest part for me were the wasps hanging out in many of the good holds! It took a lot of clear thinking to avoid disturbing those guys, protect, and find alternate holds! Aug 20, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I would say PG on this one. The gear is there, but the fall wouldn't be fun. The most unnerving part of lead is manhandling the giant, slightly detached flake which makes up the crux, and your crux gear. Oct 1, 2010
Dustin Wildermuth
Flagstaff, AZ
Dustin Wildermuth   Flagstaff, AZ
PG for sure but I was able to get gear in. Jan 29, 2012
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11 PG13
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11 PG13
Fun and steep! But after a second time, I don't think I'd do this one again. It's pretty unnerving pulling on that detached flake. Mar 4, 2012