Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Baxter et al., early 70's
Page Views: 457 total · 3/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

Alley Oop is one of the better moderate routes at the Overlook. It's just challenging enough to give a beginning leader some interesting moments, but well protected and offers some cool moves. Center right of the wall, look for a wavy crack running up a flat wall that forms the right side of a big corner. Climb up the wavy crack, skirt around a protruding boulder, then continue up. The crux comes where the corner squeezes down to a tight 1/4" crack leading to a horizontal ledge. Get a good nut in a layback your way onto the ledge (a belly flop might be in order if it saves you a fall). Then go to the right end of the ledge and up to the top.

Protection

Nuts, cams from 1/2" up to #2 Camalot size

Photos

I found Alley Ooop to be awkward in places, and difficult to protect in two critical areas. There were a few fun moves, and the direct finish to the climb (off the upper ledge - ~ 5.9) was fun. But, IMHO, there are better moderate climbs at the Overlook. Sep 25, 2006
First ascent Scott Baxter et al., early 70's. Oct 28, 2007
Felt really hard for 5.7, IMO. Definately way harder than Mint Jam. I did the direct finish above but that seemed no harder than the rest of the route. I'm going with 5.8 for the whole thing. Apr 21, 2008
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
Those without a guidebook looking for beta here should know that this starts at the base of Amateur Hour. So hopefully you know where that is too - it's tucked up in a nook/corner to the left of the Mourning's Morning area. Sep 18, 2012
Derek Field
California
  5.7
Derek Field   California
  5.7
Somewhat hidden, this route starts on a ledge about 15' up a blocky gully. Moderate climbing with occasionally tricky gear makes this a good test for a budding leader. Save a small nut for the crux mantle, which may feel like 5.8 for shorter folks. Apr 21, 2016
Austin Kaiser
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Austin Kaiser   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Can someone give me some insight on building an anchor for this route? There aren't any big trees or solid gear placements near the top of this one. Jun 30, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Pretty handy to have an extra static rope for rigging anchors here, the Forks, and Volunteer. You don’t always need it, but with minimal approaches it’s easy to carry the extra weight. Jul 1, 2018