Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's
Page Views: 1,043 total · 5/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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“I’ve always been crazy, but it’s kept me from going insane.” Waylon Jennings

A classic name for a classic route. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing and a proud basalt experience. Kinda feels like a Gunks route! 25’ to the left of Orange Out Direct, locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. The standard start is Morning’s Mourning and move left to the I’ve Always Been Crazy system. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seam, and some possible jugs up above you.

Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous wire placement. Any size wire between #5- #8 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the crux. Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section.

View of Orange Out wall with known routes

Location Suggest change

Orange out sector

Protection Suggest change

Wires, Purple to orange tcus, .5-.75 camalots, runners, draws.