Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's
Page Views: 484 total · 3/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. The standard start is Morning’s Mourning and move left to the I’ve always been Crazy system. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you.

Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the crux.

Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing. Kinda feels like a Gunks route!

View of Orange Out wall with known routes

Location

Orange out sector

Protection

Wires, Purple to orange tcus, .5-.75 camalots, runners, draws.

Photos

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