I've always been Crazy
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
Routes in The Overlook
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Circus du Soleil T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Constant Gardener T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gambit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gingerbread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Head Cheese T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
I've always been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Long Walk, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Magumba's Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Sparky and the Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's |
Page Views: | 484 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety
Details
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Description
This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. The standard start is Morning’s Mourning and move left to the I’ve always been Crazy system. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you.
Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the crux.
Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing. Kinda feels like a Gunks route!
View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the crux.
Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing. Kinda feels like a Gunks route!
View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Photos
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4 Comments