Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 562 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

A short route with a short approach. A bit harder than the 5.6 grade given by nation-wide standards, but maybe accurate locally. The climb goes from a scrambling to stemming with good locks and jams, then back to jugs at the top.

Location

From the down-walk from the rim, come back perhaps 20 meters back toward the rim overlook. The first solid-looking set of cracks is the climb, and is the closest route to the down-climb.

Protection

A single set of stoppers and cams from 1" to 3". Setting an anchor up top will take some ingenuity and judgement.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.7
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.7
There were a few wasps floating around the crack last weekend, so check it out before you start off of the first ledge.

Also there are 2 stuck cams deep in the main crack, but both look like they've been there for a long time and I'd be careful trusting the slings on them.

On another note, this was my first trad lead and now I'm 100% addicted. woohoo Sep 15, 2009
Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
 
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
 
For the anchor we decided to use the tree thats about 35 feet back from the top of the route. Works great and is really safe for belaying a second but obviously no good for a TR setup. Nov 12, 2009
Loren Trager
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Loren Trager   Flagstaff, AZ
 
There's a tree far back from the ledge and an embedded bolder at the top. Easy to protect and fun. My first trad lead, too. Jul 22, 2011
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
  5.7
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
  5.7
Definitely a fun climb. This was only my second trad lead so it felt a little hard to me. I would recommend doing it. Aug 4, 2011
AGirlNamed  
 
I use my 'let to sling the boulder at the top for an anchor Oct 7, 2011
Greg Malloure
Prescott Az
 
Greg Malloure   Prescott Az
 
If you scrable up just to the right of Griffo about 20ft there will be a small square ledge on a pedestal with some Graffitti on the wall.

In this corner is some nice Off-width climbing that takes a four pretty well. You climb this corner for about 20-30 feet and then traverse back left to Griffo. Its good fun, fist jams, or for my little hands elbows.

If I had to guess at the rating maybe 5.8?

I dont know why it isnt posted on Mountain project. I will look at the Cheap Way to Fly book to see if its listed there.

-Enjoy Feb 26, 2012
JBain
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
JBain   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
For an anchor on this route try this. As you are topping out at this route look right, there is a small hole in between two rocks that you can use as part of an anchor system. Just through a runner through there and girth hitch it. through a #3/4 cam(can't remember which fit better) in the crack just left of where you placed the runner I just mentioned, equalize the two and your done. Jan 7, 2014
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.6
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.6
Not sure what's up with all the anchor issues. Everyone acts like there's no gear up there. Set up a bomber anchor with 2 #2s,1 #1 and a large nut. Great spot. Took 2 min to setup. Easy peasy Mar 16, 2015
Jen B
AZ
Jen B   AZ
The wasps are still there. I have been the past two weekends and people got stung both weekends. They come out of the horizontal crack about a quarter of the way up from the bottom. Jul 2, 2018