Swedish Britfast Crack
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in The Overlook
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Angel's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Circus du Soleil T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Constant Gardener T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Forget me Not T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gingerbread T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Gridle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Head Cheese T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
I've always been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Long Walk, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Magumba's Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Sparky and the Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Paul Davidson, Mark Force, Spring 1979 |
Page Views: | 724 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Oct 30, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety
Details
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Description
Nice and fun obscure climb.
Not your typical Overlook climb.
I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)
My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.
It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.)
Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.
I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.
I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.
Not your typical Overlook climb.
I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)
My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.
It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.)
Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.
I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.
I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.
Location
Just to the right of the Obediah corner is an arete with holds and thin cracks leading up.
Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.
See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.
Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.
See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.
Protection
Standard Overlook rack.
Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours, so even though there weren't all that many placements to be had, we typically had the nut that would fit.
We didn't have TCU's, ball things, etc... so often made do with some odd nut stacks, nests, oppo, etc... I only point this out so no one gets up on one of these odd ball routes and feels sandbagged. This thing could also just sew up, because frankly, I have only vague fugual state memories of the climb.
Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours, so even though there weren't all that many placements to be had, we typically had the nut that would fit.
We didn't have TCU's, ball things, etc... so often made do with some odd nut stacks, nests, oppo, etc... I only point this out so no one gets up on one of these odd ball routes and feels sandbagged. This thing could also just sew up, because frankly, I have only vague fugual state memories of the climb.
2 Comments