Type: Trad
FA: Larry Coats, Steve Grossman, mid 80's.
Page Views: 816 total · 6/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

Climbs the beautiful short corner to the right of Gambit. Fun stemming up the corner leads to the off-balance fat fingers crux pulling the overhang above. (Note: we originally rated the crux .11-, but Toula downrated it in his guidebook. Having repeated it several times over the years, I'm not totally sure the downrating is accurate).

Protection

Mostly smaller cams, #1 Friends or purple Camalots for the crux.

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I agree with Larry, call it a soft 11 if you want.
Tim had a tendency to down rate stuff.
His ratings come more from a repeat ascent, sport mentality than an on sight one.

This is an excellent stiff climb.
The top gets right in your face. Oct 30, 2008