Elevation: 6,470 ft
GPS: 35.03, -111.732 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 178,860 total · 972/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

The Overlook is a firmly established traditional crag perched high above Pumphouse Wash and the head of Oak Creek Canyon, just south of Flagstaff. Long broken basalt columns line the rim of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate trad climbs. Folks began exploring these cliffs in the late 1960’s but it wasn't until the middle 70’s that it started to resemble the crag we know today. Moving into the early 80’s the list of first ascentionists reads like a roster of this generation’s best talent. Guys like Scott Baxter, Paul Davidson, Tim and Larry Coats, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, Steve Grossman, Jim Haisley, Ross Hardwick, Dugald Bremner, John Gault, Mark Force, and John Flemming all opened up classic routes at this crag.


These routes were cleaned by the hands of a thousand ascents. Pulling on hollow blocks is the norm, though always check them first as blocks can shift over time. The ledgy nature of the climbing here makes it a great place to learn how to lead trad but not a good place to fall.

There are no fixed anchors anywhere on the main wall of the crag. The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a gear anchor, rap in, then climb back out. However, there is a trail on top of the far east side of the wall which leads down to the base. rappelling is optional. If trees are used for a rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

A standard rack of doubles from #.3 through #3.5 and a single set of wires will get you up almost everything here, though smaller and larger pieces are demanded on certain routes, and extra hand sized pieces can be nice.

The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks and has a reputation for drying up quicker than the Forks during the monsoons. The wall faces south east and gets plenty of morning sun, then rolls into the shade around 2:00 in the afternoon.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety.

Getting There

From Flagstaff, The Overlook can be reached by driving south on highway 89A. At the top of the canyon, just before the switchbacks begin is the Overlook itself on the east side of the hwy.

You can park in the paved lot, but if you plan on staying later than 4:30 in the afternoon, you will want to park across the Hwy, as they lock the Overlook gates at that time. It is not uncommon to hear of people getting locked in so plan accordingly.

There are restrooms and water available during hours of operation.

80 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Overlook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
Duck Soup
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 110
Angel's Delight
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Gingerbread
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Syzygy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Red Wagon
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Mint Jam
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Morning's Mourning
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 87
Bush Rush
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Obediah
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Orange Out Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Amateur Hour
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 149
Isaiah
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Left Trinity Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Middle Trinity Crack
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Right Trinity Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Duck Soup
 64
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Angel's Delight
 110
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Gingerbread
 77
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Syzygy
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Red Wagon
 45
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mint Jam
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Morning's Mourning
 109
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bush Rush
 87
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Obediah
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Orange Out Direct
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Amateur Hour
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Isaiah
 149
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Left Trinity Crack
 73
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Middle Trinity Crack
 66
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Right Trinity Crack
 44
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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