Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Page Views: 1,594 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.

Location

Sparky starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the left route that goes through the bulging wall.

Protection

Nuts, small TCUs up to #2 Camalot size. A #.4 or #.5 will protect the bulgy crux.

Photos

First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's) Sep 1, 2007
One fine climb, highly recommended. Apr 22, 2008
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10a
One of my most favorite climbs at the overlook (so far!). Apr 27, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
An excellent pitch for the grade. Marginal pieces off the ledge give you some comfort before sinking in a bomber #.5 just below the actual crux. Enjoy the crisp 5.8 finger crack to the top. Definitely on the classic 5.10 list for the crag, but not a good first 5.10- lead. Jul 28, 2013