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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Page Views: 1,501 total, 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.

Location

Sparky starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the left route that goes through the bulging wall.

Protection

Nuts, small TCUs up to #2 Camalot size. A #.4 or #.5 will protect the bulgy crux.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
An excellent pitch for the grade. Marginal pieces off the ledge give you some comfort before sinking in a bomber #.5 just below the actual crux. Enjoy the crisp 5.8 finger crack to the top. Definitely on the classic 5.10 list for the crag, but not a good first 5.10- lead. Jul 28, 2013
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10a
One of my most favorite climbs at the overlook (so far!). Apr 27, 2008
One fine climb, highly recommended. Apr 22, 2008
First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's) Sep 1, 2007