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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomas Doug Phillips 1974
Page Views: 5,671 total · 37/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.

Pitch 1:
Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.

Pitch 2:
Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)

Pitch 3:
This is what you came for...
Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.

Location

right side of the Northeast wall

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

Photos

It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R. Mar 17, 2006
To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice. Aug 15, 2007
thanks Sep 23, 2007
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.9
The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.

We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual. May 16, 2010
Jessica T
seattle, wa
  5.8
Jessica T   seattle, wa
  5.8
Warning about this route. Belay ledge on Pitch 2 and 1 can see significant and dangerous rockfall from people topping out on Sky Chimney. Be aware!!! Oct 29, 2013
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Watts describes pitch 2 as 5.7, but the "shallow inside crack" felt 5.8. I mention this in case others, like me, find themselves wondering if they're on route at that point. Oct 6, 2015
dydayley
camas,wa
 
dydayley   camas,wa
 
I highly recommend large stoppers like hexes on the last pitch. Cams do not inspire confidence on this pitch, but do work. It was an amazing pitch, but would have been more fun to lead if I would have had some larger stoppers. Great pitch! Mar 6, 2016
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
DyDayley...you are so right on with your comment. I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to get the right cam placements in upward flares. I'd place the cam, crank on it a bit, and then, it would start to walk-up the flare. I would then just reach down and bump it to a better higher placement.

My best placement was probably a nut in the middle of the pitch, and luckily, a big #4 camelot (purple) up before the crux. Hexes would have worked perfectly for the upward flares. Jun 22, 2016
Clayton Crowhurst
Portland, OR
Clayton Crowhurst   Portland, OR
While belaying my second up the second pitch she walked a #4 up to the top of the large flake traverse to protect it and as she pulled in the cam to check it I watched the whole flake now out about 2 inches. Both of us traversed the flake with no incident but tread lightly, this may be one of those pieces of rock that just because it's been up there for a long time doesn't mean it's gonna stay up there forever. Apr 3, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
This route was a lot of fun, and can be done quickly if others aren't on route (including the walk-off). Took my partner and I about two hours top to bottom.

I placed hexes and nuts throughout the second and third pitches though cams worked well for the third. Take at least one 4" cam for the flake (yes, it's scary).

You'll need to build an anchor at the top; I used a vertical crack where things leveled out a bit. Apr 23, 2018
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
Both bolts at the belay for the third pitch were loose as of April 21, 2018. Tread lightly. Apr 28, 2018
Tim Page
Bend
Tim Page   Bend
Stellar route! Pitch 3 is awesome. I agree with some of the comments below that there are a couple bomber hex placements. However, there are no shortage of other decent placements, it's pretty typical smith trad. I did place an off-set cam or two. Regarding the loose bolts comment, the hangers are slightly loose but the bolts themselves do not feel loose at all. It's not ideal but I didn't find it particularly concerning. 7-29-18 Jul 29, 2018

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