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The Good Ol' Days
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 12
votes
Routes in (1) Northeast Face
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Damage, Inc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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European Vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Evolution Theory T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Farewell to Smith T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Higher Messiah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kevin’s Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Master of Puppets S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Snibble Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 6 pitches |
| FA: | Thomas Emde 2004 |
| Page Views: | 2,224 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Rhoderick on May 21, 2016 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Good Ol' Days is a high quality multipitch route that makes it's way up the the Platform (North Tower of Smith Rock Group)
P1: start on a steep hillside to the right of two ponderosa pines. The first bolt is an expansion bolt, the second is a glue in. Easy climbing on crumbling rock leads to a step across on thin holds. The rock improves the higher you get. 11a 12 bolts
P2: head up and left clipping two bolts, then place a piece or two. Clip the third bolt and traverse left to a pleasant slab. This pitch can be easily linked with the subsequent pitch. 10b 7 bolts and gear
P3: continue on the pleasant slab with some cool fin shaped holds to a hand crack. Cross the crack and continue to the belay. 10a 5 bolts and gear.
P4: Money pitch! Step left and clip bomber glue ins as you climb a continuous flake crack. The rock can be sharp but it's very solid, steep, and exciting. Traverse again as the crack disappears to a hanging belay. 11b/c 9 bolts.
P5: start climbing on a steep slab with solid rock, eventually meeting with a crack (bolts). Easily linked into the next pitch. 10d 7 bolts
P6. The final pitch is mostly 5th class with a 5.6 move thrown in here or there. Protection is sparse and there are loose blocks, but if you have made it this far you should make short work of this pitch. 5.6 single belay bolt and high line anchor set back from edge
Descent:
A 5.2 down climb trending skiers left brings you to the summit plateau. Bring shoes and head left (south) for a long walk off or head right and rappel Wherever I May Roam's descent and go over Asterisk
P1: start on a steep hillside to the right of two ponderosa pines. The first bolt is an expansion bolt, the second is a glue in. Easy climbing on crumbling rock leads to a step across on thin holds. The rock improves the higher you get. 11a 12 bolts
P2: head up and left clipping two bolts, then place a piece or two. Clip the third bolt and traverse left to a pleasant slab. This pitch can be easily linked with the subsequent pitch. 10b 7 bolts and gear
P3: continue on the pleasant slab with some cool fin shaped holds to a hand crack. Cross the crack and continue to the belay. 10a 5 bolts and gear.
P4: Money pitch! Step left and clip bomber glue ins as you climb a continuous flake crack. The rock can be sharp but it's very solid, steep, and exciting. Traverse again as the crack disappears to a hanging belay. 11b/c 9 bolts.
P5: start climbing on a steep slab with solid rock, eventually meeting with a crack (bolts). Easily linked into the next pitch. 10d 7 bolts
P6. The final pitch is mostly 5th class with a 5.6 move thrown in here or there. Protection is sparse and there are loose blocks, but if you have made it this far you should make short work of this pitch. 5.6 single belay bolt and high line anchor set back from edge
Descent:
A 5.2 down climb trending skiers left brings you to the summit plateau. Bring shoes and head left (south) for a long walk off or head right and rappel Wherever I May Roam's descent and go over Asterisk
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