To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
White Satin
5.9,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 116
votes
FA: Jeff Thomas Doug Phillips 1974
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (1) Northeast Face
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.
Pitch 1: Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)
Pitch 3: This is what you came for... Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.
[Hide Photo] Shirley leading the 4-star third pitch of White Satin.
[Hide Photo] Trad route for White Satin. First pitch also shares start with two others. Their is a face climb to the left on the second pitch if you dont want to do the trad route to the right.
[Hide Photo] Big flake at the end of the 2nd pitch.
[Hide Photo] Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch of White Satin. The crux is just above my head. Get in some gear and bring up your right foot high, so you can wedge yourself into the alcove. Then, you can set smaller gear (fingers) out…
[Hide Photo] Sufficient adrenaline can be found on the route if you take this variation. Extremely awkward move over the fin towards the left is coming up. Tough to protect, this climber has got some thinking t…
[Hide Comment] It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R.
Mar 17, 2006
[Hide Comment] To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice.
Aug 15, 2007
[Hide Comment] Warning about this route. Belay ledge on Pitch 2 and 1 can see significant and dangerous rockfall from people topping out on Sky Chimney. Be aware!!!
Oct 29, 2013
[Hide Comment] Watts describes pitch 2 as 5.7, but the "shallow inside crack" felt 5.8. I mention this in case others, like me, find themselves wondering if they're on route at that point.
Oct 6, 2015
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend large stoppers like hexes on the last pitch. Cams do not inspire confidence on this pitch, but do work. It was an amazing pitch, but would have been more fun to lead if I would have had some larger stoppers. Great pitch!
Mar 6, 2016
[Hide Comment] DyDayley...you are so right on with your comment. I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to get the right cam placements in upward flares. I'd place the cam, crank on it a bit, and then, it would start to walk-up the flare. I would then just reach down and bump it to a better higher placement.
My best placement was probably a nut in the middle of the pitch, and luckily, a big #4 camelot (purple) up before the crux. Hexes would have worked perfectly for the upward flares.
Jun 22, 2016
[Hide Comment] While belaying my second up the second pitch she walked a #4 up to the top of the large flake traverse to protect it and as she pulled in the cam to check it I watched the whole flake now out about 2 inches. Both of us traversed the flake with no incident but tread lightly, this may be one of those pieces of rock that just because it's been up there for a long time doesn't mean it's gonna stay up there forever.
Apr 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] This route was a lot of fun, and can be done quickly if others aren't on route (including the walk-off). Took my partner and I about two hours top to bottom.
I placed hexes and nuts throughout the second and third pitches though cams worked well for the third. Take at least one 4" cam for the flake (yes, it's scary).
You'll need to build an anchor at the top; I used a vertical crack where things leveled out a bit.
Apr 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] Stellar route! Pitch 3 is awesome. I agree with some of the comments below that there are a couple bomber hex placements. However, there are no shortage of other decent placements, it's pretty typical smith trad. I did place an off-set cam or two. Regarding the loose bolts comment, the hangers are slightly loose but the bolts themselves do not feel loose at all. It's not ideal but I didn't find it particularly concerning. 7-29-18
Jul 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] Thought the hardest move was pitch 2 gaining the steep crack. Pitch 3 is super fun. Linked the first two pitches. Definitely go right at the top of pitch 3, partner thought left from the topo in the guidebook, but right is definitely the way to go. I'd give this route a 5.8 grade. Rapped off the backside of Wherever anchors. Saw loose rocks at the top, but very avoidable and we moved some to the side. very good route.
Sep 28, 2020
[Hide Comment] I can confirm that double 70m ropes just barely get you to the ground from the rap gear on top of Sky Dive. If you want a direct return to the NE face this is the easiest. Otherwise I recommend the rap series on the W side next to Wherever I May Roam. It was a nice climb, If you are using double 70s you can link P2 and 3 easily. It is worth bringing some big webbing for a boulder anchor on the top.
Oct 15, 2020
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun route! First pitch is not great, but P2 and P3 both have some cool climbing, with P3 being the real highlight.
It's horrifying that people would even consider putting a big cam behind the flake on P2. It's probably totally fine to hand traverse across, but the idea of taking a whip and raining down a thousand pounds of death on your belayer directly beneath is... dubious. Leave the #4 at home!
Gear spoilers: I brought nuts plus doubles from 0.3-2 and a single 3 and that seemed like a great rack. No small cams needed, no hexes needed.
Nov 1, 2021
[Hide Comment] End of P2 is a hanging belay on bolts that spin. It's alright, but a bit below and to the right you can DIY a more comfortable trad anchor.
After topping out P3, walk very carefully up the scree and bear a bit right for the anchor bolts you want.
Dec 1, 2021
[Hide Comment] If you are a little spooked traversing the large flake on P2, a better alternative I'd recommend than using a 4" cam behind the flake is to simply flick your rope behind the flake to utilize it as natural pro. In a fall a cam will place a large amount of force on the flake, potentially making it flex out and making your cam rip, or ripping the huge flake off itself -- not good. However, the old-school rope flip behind the flake will secure the leader in case of a fall and have less of a chance of breaking the flake. Plus it's quicker and you can leave your big 4" cam at home.
As mentioned above, a few small to medium hexes can be nice to slot as nuts in pitch 3. However, this is certainly not required to make the pitch safe; one can get in a piece of gear almost as often as one likes and the fall will almost always be into air.
Note that it is possible to walk off the top of this route. It is the same walk-off as Wherever I May Roam. The walk-off is straight forward 3rd class with one exposed but very easy move. The trail is well-worn and contains helpful cairns. I highly recommend it. It's arguably quicker than rapping, especially if there are people on WIMR or you get your rope stuck.
Mar 21, 2022
[Hide Comment] ROCK FALL notes: I climbed this last week, and when retrieving our packs from the base of the route, a party at the top of the third pitch knocked a watermelon sized rock (along with several smaller ones) down on us at the base. The big rock missed me by a few feet, and some of the smaller ones hit my legs. I am sure knocking the rock off was an accident, but I also believe it was a very preventable one, and wanted to share my thoughts so that this hopefully doesn't happen again.
-When you top out from the 'crux/top' of the 3rd pitch you have a choice between walking up a low angle scree gully (left) or climbing a clean 5.2 slab on the right. CLIMB the slab. The scree gully funnels loose rock down onto everyone below. Even if you step with care, dragging your rope over it will knock a ton of loose rock down. Better yet, extend your last piece in the roof crack so you have more slack to work with, and coach your second on where to walk at the top.
-When you top out it's a little confusing where you build your anchor. If you continue up hill for what feels like forever (a 60 should just make it), there is a bolted anchor on solid rock by the top of 'Wherever I May Roam.' Whoever bolted this anchor did a really nice job of positioning it so that the rope won't run over any of the loose rock on top of the climb, it's placed far away for a good reason. Use it. Using this anchor may make it very difficult to see/communicate with your follower. If this is a concern to you, come up with a plan ahead of time and/or choose another moderate to climb-- getting a sick photo of your follower is not worth knocking a rock down on their head.
- When descending: The rap near 'Wherever I May Roam' was clean and straightforward. If you choose to rap somewhere else, put some serious thought into what you, your partner, and your rope are touching. It's your responsibility as a climber to do everything possible to avoid knocking off loose rocks - even if that makes your climb slower.
-Don't hang out at the base of this route. Especially not if other climbers are near the top of it. -This is probably good advice for any climbing route, but one that is easy to become complacent on.
On a brighter note, it is a beautiful route, the rock on the route itself is very clean (especially if you do the 10c pitch), and the party that knocked the loose rock down did a great job of yelling rock very loudly and promptly- which gave my partner and I just enough time to get to slightly safer terrain, and quite possibly saved our lives.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
Phoenix, AZ
We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual. May 16, 2010
Bothell, wa
Seattle, WA
camas,wa
Portland, OR
My best placement was probably a nut in the middle of the pitch, and luckily, a big #4 camelot (purple) up before the crux. Hexes would have worked perfectly for the upward flares. Jun 22, 2016
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
I placed hexes and nuts throughout the second and third pitches though cams worked well for the third. Take at least one 4" cam for the flake (yes, it's scary).
You'll need to build an anchor at the top; I used a vertical crack where things leveled out a bit. Apr 23, 2018
Portland, OR
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
Redmond, OR
Portland, OR
It's horrifying that people would even consider putting a big cam behind the flake on P2. It's probably totally fine to hand traverse across, but the idea of taking a whip and raining down a thousand pounds of death on your belayer directly beneath is... dubious. Leave the #4 at home!
Gear spoilers: I brought nuts plus doubles from 0.3-2 and a single 3 and that seemed like a great rack. No small cams needed, no hexes needed. Nov 1, 2021
Portland, OR
After topping out P3, walk very carefully up the scree and bear a bit right for the anchor bolts you want. Dec 1, 2021
As mentioned above, a few small to medium hexes can be nice to slot as nuts in pitch 3. However, this is certainly not required to make the pitch safe; one can get in a piece of gear almost as often as one likes and the fall will almost always be into air.
Note that it is possible to walk off the top of this route. It is the same walk-off as Wherever I May Roam. The walk-off is straight forward 3rd class with one exposed but very easy move. The trail is well-worn and contains helpful cairns. I highly recommend it. It's arguably quicker than rapping, especially if there are people on WIMR or you get your rope stuck. Mar 21, 2022
Lander, WY
-When you top out from the 'crux/top' of the 3rd pitch you have a choice between walking up a low angle scree gully (left) or climbing a clean 5.2 slab on the right. CLIMB the slab. The scree gully funnels loose rock down onto everyone below. Even if you step with care, dragging your rope over it will knock a ton of loose rock down. Better yet, extend your last piece in the roof crack so you have more slack to work with, and coach your second on where to walk at the top.
-When you top out it's a little confusing where you build your anchor. If you continue up hill for what feels like forever (a 60 should just make it), there is a bolted anchor on solid rock by the top of 'Wherever I May Roam.' Whoever bolted this anchor did a really nice job of positioning it so that the rope won't run over any of the loose rock on top of the climb, it's placed far away for a good reason. Use it. Using this anchor may make it very difficult to see/communicate with your follower. If this is a concern to you, come up with a plan ahead of time and/or choose another moderate to climb-- getting a sick photo of your follower is not worth knocking a rock down on their head.
- When descending: The rap near 'Wherever I May Roam' was clean and straightforward. If you choose to rap somewhere else, put some serious thought into what you, your partner, and your rope are touching. It's your responsibility as a climber to do everything possible to avoid knocking off loose rocks - even if that makes your climb slower.
-Don't hang out at the base of this route. Especially not if other climbers are near the top of it. -This is probably good advice for any climbing route, but one that is easy to become complacent on.
On a brighter note, it is a beautiful route, the rock on the route itself is very clean (especially if you do the 10c pitch), and the party that knocked the loose rock down did a great job of yelling rock very loudly and promptly- which gave my partner and I just enough time to get to slightly safer terrain, and quite possibly saved our lives.
Take care out there,
-mara Mar 30, 2022
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
Save a few cams in the .4-.75 range for the belay at the top. There aren’t many solid alternatives to build belays up there. Oct 5, 2023