Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Thomas Emde, Ryan Lawson
Page Views: 1,587 total · 28/month
Shared By: pete George on Jun 6, 2014 with updates from bradyk
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Rock quality isn't great. But really great position and summit. As of June 7th 2014 it appears the anchors for the rappel route have been pulled. (Edit: apparently the anchors are there just a little tricky to find)


Rack: Mixed to 4 inches

P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."

P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."

P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.

P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.

P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.

P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.

P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!

P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.

P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.

All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.


Gear and bolts


Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
As of July 1st 2014 the bolts are at the summit and can be rapped from the top on a 70 although the anchors on the summit are kinda hard to find they are there. you have to do some very exposed down climbing to find them. there is another set of more easily accessible rap anchors on the south west side but those are not what your rapping from. also I found three cams that someone bailed on. What a score!!!! Jul 2, 2014
Tate Shepherd
Bend, OR
Tate Shepherd   Bend, OR

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For the adventurous and choss lovers this is an awesome route! Sure the route quality is "dubious" as the book puts it, but the location and summit make it worth it. Very well protected with many bolts, we took too much gear. If you really wanted to go light, it could probably be done with nothing more then a black diamond .75, 1, 2, and 3, along with 13 ish quick draws and extendable runners.

Don't let the R rating scare you. We started on the first pitch of "Eye of the beholder" 5.11c (which was a great pitch) in order to dodge the 5.10 R move on the second pitch, but retrospectively that move really didn't look that bad from above.

I pulled a basketball size chunk off of pitch 4, and there are definitely many more, so bring a helmet for sure, and remember to check everything before you grab it! Also beware the third rappel, we got our rope stuck on some horns and had to climb back up to undo it. Not really sure the best method for avoiding that.

Anyways great route, I recommend! Sep 2, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John
We found no 5.11, no R and no 4 star pitches on this route. 5.10+ with increasingly loose rock as you ascend. The so called "money" pitch (#7) was still fairly loose and not particularly exposed or remarkable. We (deliberately) carried a 15 pound jug to a less dangerous location up higher. This hold was within a foot of a bolt on the fifth pitch - it seems as if the route wasn't cleaned much, despite being sport-bolted on rappel. Watching someone on an adjacent route rip off a human sized flake and the subsequent panic on the trail below added to the ambiance... remarkably everyone was OK.

Still, the summit was great and the last pitch, though on crumbly rock, had some fun stemming with very tight bolting. Approach it expecting a loose (though never frighteningly so), inobvious adventure climb with a cool summit, not the 4 star classic the book advertises. Oct 23, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John
To reiterate Derricks comment, the first rap anchor is to your left when you top out. You will probably belay at a 5 bolt slackline anchor at the top of P8. Your rap anchor is visible on another ledge around a corner to your left, about level with the slackline anchor. A short, easy traverse and downclimb gets you there, I liked being roped up for this. Oct 23, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
(Disclosure: I haven't ever done this route)

It's probably unwise to ever climb this on a weekend. (unless it's the dead of winter and the park is empty) This route is the definition of Smith Rock adventure choss and is perched right above two very popular single pitch crags. Typically it's up to the people below to choose not to climb underneath objective hazard, (ie: YOU if you choose to do this climb) but this is an atypical situation. I'd be surprised if 50% of the people climbing at Llama Wall and the Phoenix even know this route exists and probably aren't experienced enough climbers to assess that type of risk anyway. Every time I watch people climb this thing I hear them yell rock at least once and usually more frequently. Please do yourself and others a favor and don't climb this when you know there will be crowds below you! (that would be virtually any weekend or holiday March-November) Nov 3, 2016
HenryDietrich Dietrich
Eugene, OR
HenryDietrich Dietrich   Eugene, OR
. Moving from the second pitch, a tricky traverse move on small holds gets you to the first bolt, and you are definitely risking a fall on the anchor which is a bit scary. After the third pitch crack climb going into the tough climbing, the first bolt is there, sans hanger. Not sure why but it makes the next few tricky moves out to the next bolt very committing. We linked pitches three and 4, the top of which you come over a very fun bulge and pad up a slab to the next anchor. The finish of pitch 7 also has some scary loose rock. After climbing pitch 8 we belayed off of the slack line anchors, the rappel anchors are hidden directly left of the slack line bolts. We belayed out to them because when you're that far off the deck with the wind blowing hard, exposed 4th class feels a little spicy.

The rock quality is bad, but in the critical areas of hard climbing, it is mostly solid. As far as choss is concerned, the small gullies/large cracks with tons of loose rock are where you need to be very careful, as well as rappelling. Definitely a route where you should never blindly trust a hold, and there were more than a few times where big chunks of rock would be about to come off. However, my partner and I climbed this on a Sunday and never had anything larger than hand size come off, but we took extreme care to test holds and climb delicately. Also, I think that the risk to climbers below you from rockfall actually isn't that great, due to the route's height off the deck any falling rock would most likely end up impacting between the base routes and the trail down the hill and be a risk to the hikers/tourists walking. It would be very bad if a big piece came off, and there are a couple hollow flakes that are ready to go.

The location is awesome, and I'll forever be grateful that I climbed this incredible formation. From the summit, you are pretty much "on top" of smith. Mar 21, 2017
Adam Snyder
Bend, OR
Adam Snyder   Bend, OR
A good route. I have climbed it a few times over the last couple of years. I have yet to dislodge any sizable rocks from the route, but there are certainly opportunities to do so if one is not careful. This is very much an adventure route relative to the area and it is important to climb with that in mind (e.i. limit dead point movement and be choosy and delicate with your hand and foot placements.) Also, be mindful of potential parties below. Probably not the best choice on a busy weekend. Pitch 7 is quite sweet with good rock. Nov 17, 2018