Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Thomas Emde, Ryan Lawson
Page Views: 2,199 total · 28/month
Shared By: pete George on Jun 6, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Rock quality isn't great. But really great position and summit. As of June 7th 2014 it appears the anchors for the rappel route have been pulled. (Edit: apparently the anchors are there just a little tricky to find)

Suggestion:

Rack: Mixed to 4 inches

P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."

P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."

P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.

P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.

P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.

P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.

P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!

P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.

P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.

All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.

Protection

Gear and bolts

Photos