Evolution Theory
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | Tyler Adams, Mark Deffenbaugh 9/2008 |
Page Views: | 1,375 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jon Rhoderick on May 29, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A spectacular 12 ft crack amongst a sea of epic choss.
P1: pull committing moves on holds with the composition of cemented sand. Thankfully this pitch traverses away from the belayer . Possibly the worst sport pitch in Smith. 10- choss
P2: Much better climbing on good knobs. This is the most sustained of the 5.10 pitches and after 12 bolts you reach the Perch which is a decent ledge to rest on. 5.10
P3: look to the left for your first bolt. Good climbing on mostly positive chickenheads but not too memorable. Alternatively the pitch above your belay bolts also reaches the next belay. 5.10-
P4: the business. After threatening all hikers below on the choss before the first bolt, pull a fantastic roof crack requiring some beefcake moves and a possible heel hook or two. No more than 3 cams required (#.75 #2 C4 #2 metolius). The 5 inch mentioned in the guidebook will not help you on this pitch. We thought this climbed like a softer version of Rio's crack in the Sads. 5.11+
P5: deceptively good stone leads to some of the worst rock of the route, ready to launch rockets at your belayer. At the final bolt mantle to the right NOT to the left. 5.10 choss
P6: after moving around exfoliating rock climb up through good pockets and bad footholds as you watch the vultures circle below. 5.10
Pick a quiet day to do this one and bring a helmet.
P1: pull committing moves on holds with the composition of cemented sand. Thankfully this pitch traverses away from the belayer . Possibly the worst sport pitch in Smith. 10- choss
P2: Much better climbing on good knobs. This is the most sustained of the 5.10 pitches and after 12 bolts you reach the Perch which is a decent ledge to rest on. 5.10
P3: look to the left for your first bolt. Good climbing on mostly positive chickenheads but not too memorable. Alternatively the pitch above your belay bolts also reaches the next belay. 5.10-
P4: the business. After threatening all hikers below on the choss before the first bolt, pull a fantastic roof crack requiring some beefcake moves and a possible heel hook or two. No more than 3 cams required (#.75 #2 C4 #2 metolius). The 5 inch mentioned in the guidebook will not help you on this pitch. We thought this climbed like a softer version of Rio's crack in the Sads. 5.11+
P5: deceptively good stone leads to some of the worst rock of the route, ready to launch rockets at your belayer. At the final bolt mantle to the right NOT to the left. 5.10 choss
P6: after moving around exfoliating rock climb up through good pockets and bad footholds as you watch the vultures circle below. 5.10
Pick a quiet day to do this one and bring a helmet.
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