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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Adams, Mark Deffenbaugh 9/2008
Page Views: 471 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on May 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A spectacular 12 ft crack amongst a sea of epic choss.

P1: pull committing moves on holds with the composition of cemented sand. Thankfully this pitch traverses away from the belayer . Possibly the worst sport pitch in Smith. 10- choss

P2: Much better climbing on good knobs. This is the most sustained of the 5.10 pitches and after 12 bolts you reach the Perch which is a decent ledge to rest on. 5.10

P3: look to the left for your first bolt. Good climbing on mostly positive chickenheads but not too memorable. Alternatively the pitch above your belay bolts also reaches the next belay. 5.10-

P4: the business. After threatening all hikers below on the choss before the first bolt, pull a fantastic roof crack requiring some beefcake moves and a possible heel hook or two. No more than 3 cams required (#.75 #2 C4 #2 metolius). The 5 inch mentioned in the guidebook will not help you on this pitch. We thought this climbed like a softer version of Rio's crack in the Sads. 5.11+

P5: deceptively good stone leads to some of the worst rock of the route, ready to launch rockets at your belayer. At the final bolt mantle to the right NOT to the left. 5.10 choss

P6: after moving around exfoliating rock climb up through good pockets and bad footholds as you watch the vultures circle below. 5.10

Pick a quiet day to do this one and bring a helmet.

Location

From Christian Brothers climb up towards the pass then go left. Pass the bolted low angle slab of White Satin/Lost in Space to a tree below. Look for a low angle slab trending left with a first bolt around 15 feet up and closely spaced bolts following.

Protection

3 cams or so and 12 quickdraws and helmets.

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